The main attraction for youngsters in Kaiwara is Bheema Bakana Betta or Kaiwara betta, a hillock replete with historical and mythological tales of Mahabharata and Ramayana which is a visual treat for trekkers. From a distance of several kilometres, Bheema Bakana Betta appears like two elephants engaged in a tussle, on a head-on collision. The hillock has got its name from the fact that Pandava prince in exile, Bheema vanquished Bakasura, the rakshasa here.
Legend has it that the Pandava princes along with their mother Kunthi lived in Kaiwara, which was known as Ekachakrapura in those days.
The famous fight between Bheema and Bakasura had taken place in these hillocks and it is said that Bheema split Bakasura into half, pushed him in a cave and closed its entrance with a large boulder. While doing so he is supposed to have said “until the name of Bheema exists in Bharata, you will not be liberated from this place”. It is said that every year during the festival of Ratha-sapthami at Kaivara, a red-white liquid oozes out of the cave.
The entrance to the hillock is just opposite the Sri Yogi Naraeyanappa Ashram. Although it is quite steep, climbing is not strenuous because of the stone steps that are laid all the way to the hillock. In all, there are over 700 steps to the top and there is some support of railings.
We started our way upward very early in the morning to avoid the glare of the hot sun. When trekking on Bheema — Bakasura hill, make sure you keep a look out for monkeys. They snatch away snacks and other eatables and handbags. Wild growth, tree trunks growing awry and distorted boulders greet you all along the way. The early morning cold made it easy to traverse the rocky path and we saw small caves on the way. There are several mural paintings on the boulders depicting the fight between Bheema and Bakasura along the way up. On reaching the top we saw what looked like a large crevice which people called as Bheema’s footprint, another which looks like Bheema’s knee-print and the footprint of Bakasura. It took us roughly 45 minutes to reach the top, where the scenery is picturesque and the silence welcoming. A statue of what seems to look like Bheema adorns the top. Water from a spring, which resembles a bow and an arrow was gushing out of a rock. The water was cool and refreshing after the tiring climb.
Lakshminarayan, Manager of the Kaiwara Yogi Naraeyana Ashram told us that the spring was called ‘Lakshmana Theerta’. " It is said that Sita, Rama and Lakshmana visited the Amarnarayana temple at Kaivara during their exile and stayed for a few days. As it was summer Sita felt very thirsty and Lakshmana climbed atop the Betta to search for water. Not finding any water, he shot his arrow on a nearby rock.
The rock split and water came out of it. It is said that anyone taking a dip in these waters will be free from all sins”, he explained.
There are also two temples on the top, a Hanuman temple and a Chamundeshwari temple. After coming down we visited the magnificent ancient Bheemalingeshwara temple dedicated to the Mahabharata heroes.
It is said that Bheema installed the Shivalinga to atone his sins after killing Bakasura.
Apart from this, there are temples for the Shivalingas installed by other pandava brothers — Nakulalingeshwara, Sahadevalingeshwara, Dharmalingeshwara, Arjunalingeshwara in the same temple complex.
The main temple’s beautiful three-tier Mahadwara Mantapa has intricate carvings of gods and goddess.
The three-tier Vimana Gopuram is unique in that it has the hood of a snake in copper in addition to carvings of gods and goddesses.
The other four temples in the complex are not so elaborate but are built in the same design and have shiva lingas in the sanctum sanctorum.
These temples are found all around the main temple. All these temples are built in 1280 AD by Hoysalas.
Walking out of the temple you will find ancient carvings and artifacts of the Pandava princes, in action on the battlefield, lying outside the temple adorning its main wall.
The natural beauty of Kaiwara will remain etched in your memory like a picture postcard for a very long time.