Ethical consumerism is a new concept in the Indian fashion scene. And that is exactly what Vijayalakshmi Nachiar is promoting through her brand Ethicus. In the city to promote her ‘ethical fashion’ brand from Appachi Cotton, she speaks about how she is promoting the weaver community with a goal to establishing India’s handloom advantage globally.
The Ethicus story began in the sleepy town of Pollachi, Tamil Nadu, where a young and self-motivated couple, Mani Chinnaswamy and his wife Vijayalakshmi, the former with a graduate degree in management from the US and the latter with a graduate degree in textiles from Mumbai, inherited a three-generation old cotton business that was steeped in tradition, Appachi Cotton.
This dynamic duo struck upon a novel idea of ‘inclusive and sustainable growth’, wherein they adopted an innovative integrated contract farming model for cotton which helped ensure income for thousands of marginal farmers in the cotton production supply chain.
It was in 2004 that Mani turned to organic contract farming. “We thought we needed a healthy lifestyle for doing ethical business. So we had to bring about a change in our business. We stopped dealing with regular cotton, which was cultivated using pesticides as it clashed with our ideology,” recollects Vijayalakshmi.
Mani started organic farming in the Kabini region in Mysore, which is an eco-sensitive area, involving 185 farmers which is now a certified organic farm. “To grow organic cotton in the region is ecologically viable as the Pollachi-Kabini region is home to a wealth of flora and fauna, including a tiger reserve and an elephant sanctuary that are under dire threat from synthetic genetically modified cotton cultivation which is contaminating the fragile forest reserves with its heavy use of chemicals,” says Vijayalakshmi.
The couple says there is a social stigma associated with farming. And traditional crafts like weaving are looked down upon. So the weaver community does not want their children to take up weaving but go for IT-related jobs. But Mani is encouraging these communities by ensuring that all players in the value chain, be it the environment and local wildlife, the farmers, the weavers, the centuries-old traditions, future generations and ultimately the very nation are taken forward to a better life.
Appachi is also engaged in environmental education through the school and community college run by the company, empowering future generations to keep our environment safe. “We are building our own curriculum of weaving, hand spinning and even designing. So youngsters from the weaver community can become designers rather than weavers and they can sustain the future generation,” says Mani. “We are focusing on ethical fashion and inclusive growth approach. Fabindia which follows the same approach is a good example. From its humble beginnings it has now become the most sought after brand even by the younger generation.”
That is the kind of growth that Ethicus is focusing on and their commitment shows in the way they conduct business. Ethicus brand has an array of products made out of 100 percent ‘eco-logic organic cotton and ethical silk. Ethicus products are handcrafted by rural artisans using centuries-old weaving techniques on jacquard handlooms and are designed with keeping international standards in mind.
The new Ethicus brand includes beautiful saris, stoles, duppattas as well as a host of other men’s and women’s garments. Bed linen, table linen, curtains, decorative cushions, baby gift sets, knitted T-shirts and accessories like bags and yoga mats are also part of the collection. Ethicus was launched in Mumbai in September last year.
This is the first time that they are venturing into the Kerala market. When you take home an Ethicus product, you do more than just buy a brand— you buy a cause. Their saris and dupattas designed by Chelna Desai, and apparels designed by Parneet Shergill will be on display at the Fabindia store in Ravipuram till Sunday.