Who would have thought of going to Gujarat, a state best known for its lions and temples, for a beach holiday? Indeed, Gujarat’s 1,666-km-long coastline — with fine beaches, India’s first marine national park, medieval shore temples and early-20th century beach palaces — remains one of India’s best-kept tourism secrets. But all that’s about to change. Stretching from the creeks of Kutch in the northwest to the beaches of the southeast, the virgin beaches of Gujarat are now opening up to tourists with newly-built facilities and refurbished hotels and resorts.
For its part, the state tourism department is trying to do its bit and get more people on the beach. It has started by identifying 16 beaches and coastal sites for tourism development, roped in Gujarat brand ambassador Amitabh Bachchan to advertise the virgin Mandvi beach and the shore temples of Dwarka and Somnath, and invited fresh tourism investments at select locations.
While the fresh investments will take some time to shape up, there’s plenty on offer even now. Consider a romantic getaway at the secluded beach at Mandvi Palace in Kutch or watersports and adrenaline-fuelled activities at the Ahmedpur Mandvi beach between Somnath and Diu. Then there is the little-known beach of Shivrajpur as well as the dark sanded Tithal beach that’s popular with day trippers from nearby cities. The villa facing the sea at Gopnath offers you a colonial experience while Dwarka and Somnath proffer a combination of sightseeing, religious and beach experiences. Pick any for an interesting coastal holiday.
MANDVI PALACE
For an exclusive holiday, head for the superbly secluded beach at Mandvi Palace. As the name suggests, this beach lies in the 450-acre private estate of the erstwhile Maharao of Kutch – which means it is only accessible to those staying at one of the 10 tented rooms or eating at the beachside restaurant. Tucked away among the dunes and coastal bushes, the deluxe tents here take you back to the days of royal camps, with striped canvas walls, carved wooden furniture and verandas with deck chairs (even though the rooms are all air-conditioned and modern). This is the place to take a stroll on the long beach, sunbathe on the deck chairs set under thatched canopies, play beach volleyball, swim or paddle in the calm sea and lunch in the open-sided restaurant with regional food and the catch-of-the-day. Located near the western boundary of India, the beach is best enjoyed in the evening when the chef brings out the grill for a beach barbecue against a brilliant sunset on the horizon. While at Mandvi, you must also visit the Vijay Vilas Palace, a majestic building where the Maharao of Kutch spent his summer months in the 1940s with his family and entire administrative team. Climb to the palace’s rooftop pavilion for a view of the sea across the estate. And yes, do remember to look out for the palace locations where Bollywood blockbusters Lagaan and Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam were filmed.
Somnath & Ahmedpur mandvi
Somnath hosts one of the holiest Shiva temples for Hindus and attracts devotees largely because of its Jyotirlingams. The beach, which stands behind the temple, is the haunt of food vendors. You can take a camel ride on the dunes here or stroll along the long stretch of sands. About 80 km from Somnath lies Ahmedpur Mandvi, comprising a long stretch of firm sands that is excellent for long walks. Fringed by palms brought here by the Portuguese, this beach suffers due to its location in the ‘rain-shadow’ of the more-frequented, neighbouring beaches of Diu (primarily because you can get a chilled beer by the sea out there!). Which is not to say that there’s any dearth of activity here. Relax on the beach and admire the Portuguese monuments on Diu Island or sign up for parasailing, jetskiing and speed boating. There is a resort here, called Magico do Mar, with Gujarati-style cottages set around the erstwhile Nawab of Junagadh’s beach villa — even if you are not staying there, do drop in for a fish lunch or dinner.
TRANQUIL
SHIVRAJPUR
Like Somnath, Dwarka is good for a holiday that combines sightseeing with a pilgrimage and beach visits. But there’s an added bonus here: the creeks and mudbanks nearby are great for watching birds and marine life. One of the seven holiest towns for Hindus, Dwarka’s townscape is dominated by the shikhar of the Dwarkadish temple. Set along the estuary of the Gomti, the temple is best viewed from the beach which is excellent for strolls. For architectural excellence, visit the 12th century Rukmani temple with its exquisitely carved walls. To get away from Dwarka, head for the beaches of Shivrajpur, just 15 minutes north of the Rukmani temple. The beach lies near Shivrajpur village, between a lighthouse and a rocky shoreline, and is ideal for a long walk and a wade. Other must-visit coastal sites near Dwarka are Okha Madhi for its fine sands, Poshitara for coral reefs and marine life and the Charakhla salt pans, to catch sight of hundreds of flamingoes, pelicans and painted storks.
The tree-lined beach of Tithal
Tithal is located just five km from Valsad and makes for a comfortable day excursion from the industrial city of Vapi. It is much visited by day trippers and local courting couples, specially on weekends. Its scenic location has also made it a popular site for temples and ashrams. All in all, it is a pleasant, dark-sanded beach, lined with casuarinas and little eateries, where you can sit and enjoy the sea over a cuppa and snacks.
GOPNATH BUNGALOW BY THE SEA
From 1942 to the accession of the princely states in 1948, Maharaja Krishnakumar Sinh Gohil of Bhavnagar would spend the months from April to September at the Gopnath Bungalow, his estate by the sea. The strong sea breeze that accosts you as soon you enter the estate makes it easy to understand the Maharaja’s choice. Set on an elevation, the bungalow has a scenic location flanked by rocks and a lighthouse. The sea here is turbulent and not advisable for swimming — a problem the Maharaja solved by creating a seawater swimming pool. Today, his grandson has retained the mansion as a family retreat, but converted the colonial cottages (which were once used by the Maharaja’s staff) into a resort. He’s also added on more accommodation by constructing a new block of cottage-like rooms in the estate. Sitting outside the cottages, enjoying the view of the sea, you may see shore birds feeding on the mud banks, peregrine falcons and ospreys hovering in search of prey, dolphins surfacing for air or fishing boats bringing in their catch. The bungalow serves the traditional cuisine of the Kathiawad region, but you can get fresh seafood whenever there is a good catch.