Rowther, maraikayar, and lebbai are names used for distinctive Tamil speaking Muslims from South India. People with Turkish ancestors are called Rowther though the word itself has become very generic in modern times. Their biriyani is very popular and is never made in the layer style like the Hyderabadi variety. The rice is cooked in masala with the meat and served with dalcha.
Every time I pass by Valluvarkottam High Road I have been noticing this obscure biriyani place called Rowther. A gigantic vessel that holds the biriyani literally blocks the entrance. There is a thin five-ft long granite slab for the table and a few blackened plastic stools strewn around. Someone pours water from the farther end and a boy of 17 sweeps the floor. I lift my legs and complain that the water is ruining my sari. I ask for some chicken biriyani. “Are you sure you want to eat here?” the lad asks. I nod my head and someone shoves the plate on to my hand. “It is hygienic to eat with hands, at least you wont have a reason to pick a fight with us for unwashed spoons,” the lad comments. I do beg for a plastic spoon to taste the biriyani. The masala is clearly very mild and has not seeped into the rice that is again not cooked to the right consistency. The strong smell of cloves discourage me. I hesitantly try a chicken wing. It is tough, bland and salty. Syed Kasim the cook says that he is an expert in biriyani and has learnt it during his days as a helper in “small hotels.”
“I am sorry but your biriyani is not tasty,”- I suggest. “I cook on gas stove and not on fire wood you see and also I don’t use ajinomoto. But look that guy is having his second plate,” Syed points to an auto driver. About 250 people eat here everyday and the leftovers are given to the mosque. The chicken biriyani cost Rs 45 and the mutton Rs 60. Fried chicken cost Rs 30 per 100 gm. “By the way Syed, my mom uses the gas stove and also does not use ajinomoto for biriyani. It tastes fabulous. Do you want to come home?” I offer. “I am an expert and I have experience,” Syed complains. “Ok, ok you are the best! Happy Ramzan,” I give him a pat.
Rowther Biriyani
New no: 86, Old no: 211
Valluvarkottam High Road
Numgambakkam.