Legend has it that Lord Nataraja performed his philosophically pregnant and highly educative cosmic dance at Courtallam for the pleasure of his devotees, Agasthiar and Thirumoolar, and that Brahma, who was a mute witness and spectator to the divine drama, painted the scene on the walls of the Chitra sabah so that it could be enjoyed and relished for posterity.
Is that only legend? Look at the paintings again. Look at the colours, the curves and the contrast. You will definitely believe that human hands could not have infused such colour, vigour and subtle feeling into the paintings. Chitra sabah at Courtallam is also one among the five famous sabahs (pancha sabahs) in Tamil Nadu dedicated to Lord Nataraja, the cosmic dancer; the others being Kanaga (gold) sabah in Chidambaram, Velli (silver) ambalam in Madurai, Ratna (diamond) sabah in Thiruvalangadu and Tamira (copper) sabah in Tirunelvelli. Unlike the other sabahs, Chitra sabah at Courtallam is entirely in art form—two dimensional (Chitra rupa).
Built in the late 15th century by Parakirama Pandian and situated in sylvan settings of Courtallam—Five Falls Road—this gorgeous hall with its glorious paintings bears ample testimony to the artistic genius, and aesthetic feelings and sense of our forefathers. The structure of the sabah has many things in common with the temples of Kerala. The four walls of the sabah are decorated with mural paintings of deities, devotees, mythological stories, puranic events and so on and so forth.
The past times, or thiruvilaiadals, of Lord Siva that number about 63 have been rendered in sparkling multi colour—in art form with spiritual poise and ease.
The presiding deity of the hall, Lord Nataraja, is truly a masterpiece. One should see it to believe the divine grace on the benevolent face of the Lord. The 10 incarnations of Lord Vishnu also figure alongside, well emphasising the oneness of the two major limbs of Hinduism, viz, Saivism and Vaishnavism.
Tantric symbols like Sri Chakra drawn with mathematical precision and meticulous care add to the beauty of the hall all the more. The wedding of Lord Muruga and Valli and Deivayanai, and that of Lord Sundereshwarar with Meenakshi are portrayed in vivid colours. Lord Padmanabha with Brahma taking birth from the navel of Vishnu as a lotus is the cynosure of all eyes. Lord Vinayaga in His famous sodasa (sixteen) forms adorns the top of the hall.
A story from Bagavatham, wherein an Elephant caught in the iron grip of a crocodile got emancipation through the grace of Lord Vishnu, has come out in sparkling colours. Lord Vishnu saving His surrendered devotee with a disk in hand gently seated on His vehicle Garuda beggars all description.
Dancing damsels with pretty faces adorn the entrance. Scenic beauties also find a prominent place. The main falls in Courtallam with its surging flow of foaming water is portrayed well. Demi gods like Veerabadra and Kalanganathar occupy the outer wall. One remarkable feature of the paintings is that they were originally made with herbal extracts. The paintings of Chitra sabah are of world class and remind one of the famous adage: a picture is worth a thousand words.
But unfortunately very little research has been done on these precious paintings. However, one silver lining is that the hall of paintings is being renovated at present and that the paintings of the yore would attract more number of devotees, tourists and researchers in the coming days. The archaeological department would do well to declare this sacred place as a heritage spot, of course with the cooperation of UNESCO.
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