Chennai

The Macaron Story

No, the spelling of ‘macaron’ isn’t missing an ‘o’. That’s how the French who invented this dessert do it. If you can’t get enough of them, let’s get whisking...

Bhaskar Adeeb

CHENNAI: The macaron has always been a centre of gastronomic attraction all over the world. Its smooth and crisp shell and soft-centre with a filling of a flavoured ganache has attracted many young chefs to try their hand in perfecting the art of making a perfect macaroon.

As far the history goes, ‘Gerbet’ or the ‘Paris macaron’ as it was initially called, has been claimed to have been invented by both the French and Italians. Though Larousse Gastronomique writes about its invention in central France in the 8th century, the exact details are still not known.

Essentially, almond powder being the principal ingredient, it is supported by meringue (egg whites and sugar whisked together) and of course skilful ‘crouting’ or drying the macaron before baking gives the characteristic cracks.

Also a lot of times, there is a confusion regarding its spelling, some spell it as macaron and some macaroon which is the English name for the French macaron!

Though everyone has their own recipe for the delicacy, French macarons are considered the best in the world. With places like Fauchon, Laduree and Pierre Herme, the macaron has been given a new style with every passing day.

My interest in the little monster started when I got the chance to browse through the copy of a book from Lenotre some years ago, and since then I have been trying my hand and taste buds in making and tasting them wherever I travel.

Just like any other classic, it too has its own variations, most of which exist in France. With fillings ranging from nut-based to simple ganache and buttercream, you will find macaron changing from shop to shop and town to town. ‘Makaron’ is the Japanese version where the almond meal is replaced with peanut powder and served extensively in the northern town of Sendai.

Chefs are now experimenting with its flavours, colours and even shapes. I tried a square and heart shaped for The Leela Palace cake shop, Chennai last Valentine’s day.

The versions of macarons available now range from single flavours like chocolate, raspberry, coconut to more complex and compound flavours like olive oil and mandarin, passion fruit and basil, mango and peppercorn and even a cubalibre (cola and rum). As you can tell, these flavours are extensive and are only limited to the chefs creativity!

(The writer is the executive pastry chef at The Leela Palace Chennai)

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