The months of April and May are here, and surviving the heat becomes an everyday battle. Air conditioners are serviced, ice trays are filled, and light fabrics come to the fore. While we grapple with several ways to stay cool during the summer, struggling to keep our homes well ventilated in this concrete jungle, we take a moment to revisit the buildings of the past, especially those tucked in the streets of Kanadukathan and Athangudi in Karaikudi of Sivaganga district. Rich in history and preserved as heritage structures, the homes in this district are a masterclass in beating the heat naturally. With these palatial bungalows catching the eye of youngsters for its grandeur and aesthetics, CE takes a trip to the Chettinad heritage homes where the façades whisper tales that go beyond Tamil Nadu, the architecture inside is a study in beauty — with checkered floor tiles, open roofs, coloured pillars, a vast verandah, and designed tiles on the walls.
Sri Letchmi Vilas, an opulent building stands tall on a street in Athangudi. Painted in cream colour, a subtle sage green gate opens for visitors. Above it is a vibrantly carved motif of Goddess Lakshmi on a lotus, surrounded by celestial beings. Further above on another beam is a similar sculpture; only here she is guarded by sculptures of officers. A few metres down the lane, the entrance to another building bears a wide canopy-like structure, painted with intricate designs, protecting you from the sun.
You’ll spot this interplay of mythology, reality, and design in the palace-like homes in this district.
The Chettinad houses are said to be built by the affluent Nattukottai Chettiar community, who were into global trade. These homes are proud reminders of a worldly past, with Chettiar merchants building banking networks from Burma to Ceylon, Malaya, and Singapore in the 19th and early 20th centuries. As their fortunes grew overseas, they poured that wealth into turning their homeland into a showcase of far-flung influences.
The Chettiars trace their roots to Naganadu in today’s Andhra Pradesh. After initially trading gems, spices, and rice from Kanchipuram, they moved to Kaveripoompattinam and indulged in overseas deals via Nagapattinam during the Chola period. In the 15th century, Soundara Pandiyan of the Pandya dynasty invited them to settle in villages across today’s Sivaganga and Pudukkottai districts in the heart of Chettinad.
The many mansions of Karaikudi
S Kannappan, who has researched Chettinad mansions, points out the genius in their designs. “Ground floors stick to local roots, while upper ones borrow Western flair. They fight floods and harvest rain; sloped roofs funnel water to tanks for home use and wells, with extras feeding village drains, ponds (oorani), and big tanks (eri or kanmoi). This whole system from home to village to fields shows their precautionary measures for sustainable living,” he says.
Among the main attractions of Karaikudi is the Sri Letchmi Vilas, built between 1929 and 1932 by N AR Nachiappa Chettiar. This 1.08-acre beauty was completed by 150 skilled craftspersons, including masons, painters, blacksmiths, artists, and carpenters from Tirunelveli and Nagercoil. They used imported materials and old-school techniques, building it without electricity, cement, or power tools. Nachiappa’s wife, Meyyammai Achi, looked after everything closely to ensure top-notch work.
The foundation mixes bricks and stones in an arch design. Walls get a special lime mortar boosted with egg whites, jaggery, and kadukkai. Ceilings interlock tiles, wood, and bricks, held up by stone pillars, wooden beams, and steel. Grills are riveted by hand, as there was no welding back then. Over 50 granite pillars, Japanese and European tiles, and Belgian mirrors give the wow factor.
Then there’s AR House, a 280-year-old family gem in Kanadukathan, built by RM Arunachalam Chettiar, the zamindar of Silathur in Thanjavur. It’s a shining example of Chettinad’s artistic soul. The front door, designed by five master carpenters who carved gods, goddesses, and mythical scenes, took seven years to complete. Inside, 22 Burma teak pillars and eight black granite ones at the entrance frame foyers made using Italian black marble. Spread across five wings with about 80 rooms, it has a massive dining hall for 200 people. Wiring hides in teak beading with English fittings. The fourth wing sports traditional red oxide floors, and walls shine with egg polish and plant-based paints.
Beyond attracting visitors, these houses have been central to architectural study, too. S Subhashini, an assistant professor of architecture at Anna University’s School of Planning and Architecture in Chennai, says these homes capture the Chettiars’ lavish life and deep cultural roots. They’re smartly planned, mixing Tamil traditions with global touches, all while staying cool during the summer heat. “In India’s hot, humid climate, these houses nail natural cooling with open courtyards (mutrams), soaring ceilings, big wooden doors and windows, shady verandahs, thick lime walls, and layouts that catch the breeze. The carved wooden pillars and doors, sloped roofs, Athangudi tiles, and stucco art with flowers and myths; the size and bling reflect the Chettiars’ trade empires in South and Southeast Asia, through which they brought in Burmese teak and Italian marble,” she explains.
These beautiful structures mirror family roles, faith, and community pride, keeping cultural stories alive through expert craftsmanship, she adds.
Yet, many of these palaces, that once buzzed with big families, are now facing troubled times as the upkeep of the huge courtyards, carved doors, teak pillars, and custom tiles, is expensive. While some remain locked and unattended, some hosting families only during festivals, many others have turned into heritage houses or boutique hotels, boosting tourism while saving the legacy.
Tile Tales
While several factors add beauty to these structures, it is the Athangudi tiles that most visitors marvel at. A Michelraj, owner of Malar Tiles, who belongs to a family that has handcrafted these tiles for over 90 years, a tradition that was started by his grandfather Ratnam Pillai, declares with pride, “We don’t advertise. Our tiles do the talking.” He adds that these are often recommended by architects and engineers, and are made to order.
“These tiles are eco-friendly. They keep the houses warm in winter, and cool in summer. They are handmade with fine local sand, cement, and oxide colours. The designs go into moulds, topped with base mix, pressed, soaked in water, and air dried. No machines are used,” he shares, walking us through the process. This handmade charm and toughness have kept the family thriving for generations.