For Delhi’s Shantanu and Nikhil Mehra, the language of luxury has always been about more than embellishment. Over two decades, the designer duo has built a distinctive aesthetic at the intersection of Indian heritage and contemporary sophistication, reimagining occasion wear through architectural draping, military-inspired detailing and razor-sharp tailoring. Now, the couturiers are taking their design vocabulary beyond the wardrobe and into an altogether different territory: horology.
Their latest collaboration with Gurugram-based, design-led watch house ROTORIS sees them bring their sartorial sensibility to a special timepiece for its Manifesta collection. Known for its dials carved from a single piece of semi-precious stone, the collection offers an intriguing canvas for the designers, whose understanding of craftsmanship has always extended beyond the surface.
For the brothers, however, this was never simply about adding another category to their portfolio. It was about finding a meeting of minds. “I think it all comes down to the human beings behind it,” says Nikhil, recalling his and Shantanu’s first interactions with ROTORIS co-founders Akash and Prerna Gupta. “A lot of founders have passion, but sometimes we miss processes. Shantanu and I love a process. We sat down and we understood how watchmaking happens and the kind of detail with which they’ve gone into, and the sacrifices they’re willing to make to get the right watch. Everyone’s chasing revenue; they were chasing excellence. That’s hard to find,” he adds.
For two designers who have spent years perfecting the intricacies of couture, the attraction was perhaps inevitable. The collaboration brought together two disciplines that demand patience, precision and an almost obsessive attention to detail. “Everything has a process, and as couturiers, when we get into a confidential space of doing something which is made-to-measure, you have to work on the process. I think that by itself was the testimony that this is the right marriage of craft meeting craft,” says Shantanu.
The resulting timepiece is an exercise in understated opulence. Its dial is carved from pietersite, a semi-precious stone distinguished by its dramatic natural veining, making every piece inherently individual. The geological richness is complemented by solid 18-karat white gold detailing and an open-heart Miyota automatic movement. The design strikes a considered balance between the organic irregularity of stone and the precision of mechanical watchmaking.
The Mehra brothers have also resisted the temptation to make the collaboration an overt branding exercise. Instead, their design signatures emerge through a carefully calibrated palette of deep slate greys, matte finishes, vintage-treated leather straps and muted gold accents that evoke a distinctly old-world interpretation of Indian luxury. “Subtlety is a very important word here. Our logo is at the back of the strap. We wanted a timepiece to speak as a timepiece. It’s not about having just your brand being placed; it’s not about the watch. It’s about the person,” says Nikhil.
It is an approach that reflects a larger shift in how the designers view luxury today. In a market increasingly driven by instant gratification and seasonal launches, they remain invested in the romance of time, both as a design consideration and as a measure of craftsmanship. “Pieces like these take months to create. Even here, we started about eight or nine months ago,” reveals Shantanu, suggesting that the anticipation is as much a part of the experience as the finished object.
For the Delhi-based couturiers, the collaboration also represents a more considered approach to brand expansion. Their recent association with eyewear label John Jacobs signals an interest in taking their design language into new categories, but only when the creative and philosophical alignment is genuine. Nikhil believes that the appetite for speed often comes at the cost of precision, particularly in India's manufacturing ecosystem. “The intent has to be there – when it comes to processes and creating precision – these are things that don't usually happen in India. Here, we seem to always be in a hurry to make things,” he observes.
There is, however, a larger sentiment driving their growing interest in home-grown collaborations. As Indian luxury finds its footing on the global stage, the designers believe that home-grown labels no longer need international validation to establish their credibility. “The best thing about this new collaborative world opening up in India is that Indian brands want to tie up with Indian brands. We don’t need an international voice to make us feel valid. Organically aligning with another strong Indian brand where there’s a true fit is what makes India the flavour for the world,” says Shantanu.
From couture ateliers to watchmaking studios, the brothers are essentially exploring the same idea: that true luxury is rarely loud, and exceptional craftsmanship is never hurried. In this new chapter, time is not merely being told; it is being tailored.