It’s a riot of noise and colour. The Green Market, or Pazar, in Split, Croatia, is a fest for the senses. The noise of greetings and haggling buzz in the air; the aromas of blooming flowers, cured meats, and stacks of fresh fruit and vegetables add brightness to even gloomy days.
The Green Market is not just a place to buy produce, but one of the big attractions in Split. The popularity of this coastal town—the second largest in Croatia and the largest on the Dalmatia Coast—is aided by its proximity to the ‘party island’ of Hvar, and of course, the Games of Thrones (several scenes from the TV show were shot here) city of Dubrovnik.
Beyond the charms of the UNESCO Heritage Old Town and Diocletian’s Palace, it is the food in this coastal town that is worthy of attention. Early mornings are busy at the market, where vendors (usually farmers or small growers) from across the region come to showcase their wares and offer samples to interested observers.
Candied fruit is common—everything from figs, orange and lemon peels, to almonds are candied. Dalmatia is full of fig trees, which largely grow around olive groves. So figs are a big part of their cuisine—eaten daily with cheese, and some honey, or in a deliciously moist fig cake. The olive oil, too, is so pure that they drink it plain, believing it provides them essential nutrients.
Between the plum wine and juicy peaches and grapes, there are other treats at the market. Like the soparnik. The traditional Croatian dish is a flat, diamond-shaped cold pancake, usually made with chard, onions, garlic and olive oil. It is commonly eaten during fasting days and on Christmas Eve (when they don’t eat meat). The meat counters in the market are always popular, with people lining up to buy that Croatian staple, prosciutto.
A few streets away, in the heart of the Old Town is another landmark: Ribarnica or the fish market. Set up in an old building, the first thing to notice is the absence of flies (owing to nearby sulphur spas). Unsurprisingly, there’s fish and seafood everywhere in Split. Sardines are usually salted, eaten with olive oil and capers.
Mussels are steamed with white wine and olive oil, and served with bread in a dish called buzzara. Cuttlefish and cuttlefish ink are used to make a black risotto. These items can be found across konobas (a taverna that typically serves local food) like Konoba Deep Shade or Konoba Fetivi.
Split enjoys really good weather, with temperatures not dropping too low or going too high. The Riva Promenade is where locals go to enjoy a walk, meet people, sip a coffee while looking out onto the sailboats and ships, or just eat some gelato.
Locals eat ice cream throughout the year, which explains the many gelato and ice cream shops dishing out flavours like coconut and rosemary, fig, mojito, carrot, olive oil and of course, lavender. Most recently, a gelateria—Bili San—launched a ‘First in the world’ flavour: chicken-flavoured ice cream.
In Croatia, lavender is a common summer crop and it is thus, widely used: as an herb, in teas, honey, jams, syrups, in soaps, oils, ice cream/gelato and even chocolate. The ubiquitous olive oil also makes it to chocolates.
Though the Old Town is now choc-a-block with shops, there are some local haunts. Tradicija Bakery claims to be the oldest pastry shop, run by the Kirigin family. They are popular for their pastries, and sirnica (sweet loaf eaten during Lent) and their rafioli (crescent-shaped pastry with a ground almond filling).
A closer look at the stalls reveals many local liqueurs and spirits, which make for good souvenirs and gifts. There’s orahovac made with unripe, green walnuts; white wine made from grapes found only on Korcula island, and fruit brandies made from Marasca cherries or honey.
It feels like an apt way to toast the culinary wonders of this small town.