Last week, Japanese restraint and French culinary precision came together in a six-course menu by Michelin-starred chef Daisuke Mori at Oko, The Lalit New Delhi. The two-day culinary showcase drew on Mori’s upbringing in Japan, training in France and experiences of living and cooking abroad. Moving beyond familiar Japanese staples such as ramen and tempura, the menu explored how French techniques and Japanese flavours can complement one another.
“Japanese cooking has taught me the importance of restraint, seasonality and allowing the natural character of an ingredient to shine. French cuisine, on the other hand, has influenced my approach to technique, structure and the way flavours are layered to create depth. For me, these influences are not contradictory; they complement one another. My culinary identity lies in bringing them together while remaining mindful of the integrity of each ingredient and the experience I want to create for the diner,” Mori says.
Seafood featured prominently across the menu. The opening course of giant mud crab cakes topped with Kristal caviar paired the crab’s sweetness with the brightness of a remoulade, making for a light start to the meal. A savoury and flaky girolle mushroom tart followed, bringing earthy flavours and delicate textures to the plate. The lobster barley risotto introduced a filling course, before the red snapper tempura, served with a fragrant seaweed and bonito dashi and yuzu, brought a bittery-citrusy lift.
The seared Challans duck was a highlight, its richness balanced by a caramelised spiced honey sauce and roasted black fig, which added a jammy sweetness. The meal concluded with matcha panna cotta, whose bittersweet and grassy notes offered a gentle finish to the six courses.
The vegetarian menu was also put together well. Beginning with spinach, Japanese sesame and silken tofu before moving through girolles, green asparagus, Japanese vegetable tempura and roasted root vegetables. A matcha Basque cheesecake with Chantilly cream and a hint of brandy ended the meal, its creamy centre balanced by the grassy bitterness of matcha.
For Mori, the interplay of flavours and textures is central to the dining experience. Each component must serve a purpose, whether introducing acidity, adding texture or creating depth. “The key is knowing when to add complexity and when to step back,” he says.
His approach is informed by a career across several distinguished kitchens, including the three-Michelin-starred Château Restaurant Joël Robuchon in Tokyo, two-star Restaurant Taillevent in Paris and one-star Restaurant Signature at Mandarin Oriental Tokyo. Having also spent several years living and cooking in Poland before moving to Hong Kong, Mori draws on a range of culinary influences without necessarily translating them into literal references on the plate.
“Throughout the menu, I wanted to explore contrasts—delicate and rich, crisp and silky, sweetness and acidity—without allowing any one element to overwhelm the others. Ultimately, the story is about encouraging guests to slow down, pay attention to the details and experience how each flavour and texture evolves across the meal,” he says.