Mangala Devi Temple 
Travel

Forts, forests and folklore

From Rajasthan’s infamous fort to Ajabgarh’s hill trails and Sariska’s tiger country…

Srushti Kulkarni

The road from Bhangarh to Sariska is often reduced to a story about a ‘haunted fort’ and a tiger reserve. But the stretch through Ajabgarh offers a more varied itinerary, combining ruined settlements, hill forts, forest trails, old temples and stepwells. Set across the Aravalli landscape of Alwar district, it works well as a short road trip with a mix of heritage walks and a wildlife safari.

Begin at Bhangarh Fort, the starting point for the route. The 16th-century settlement was founded by Raja Bhagwant Das and later became associated with his son Madho Singh. The protected site contains the remains of fortifications, temples, havelis, markets and the royal palace, with Gopinath, Someshwar, Keshav Rai and Mangla Devi among its prominent temples.

Its reputation as one of India’s most ‘haunted’ places comes from local legends rather than documented history. What is concrete, however, is the restriction on visiting the fort outside daylight hours. Entry is not permitted before sunrise or after sunset, so plan the visit accordingly.

Allow time to walk beyond the main entrance and explore the old bazaar and temple remains before reaching the royal palace at the rear of the complex. The scale of the abandoned township becomes clearer once you move away from the more photographed sections.

From Bhangarh, continue towards Ajabgarh, where the landscape changes from the fort’s built ruins to rocky Aravalli terrain. Ajabgarh Fort makes a natural stop for those looking to add a short hike to the itinerary. The hilltop structure overlooks the surrounding landscape and can be combined with a visit to the village and nearby historic water structures.

Ananta Ajabgarh

For a comfortable base, stay at Ananta Ajabgarh Located in Guwara Kundal village. The property is positioned close to Bhangarh Fort, Ajabgarh Fort and Sariska, making it practical to split the itinerary across two days rather than returning to Jaipur after every excursion. The resort also overlooks Ajabgarh Fort and offers accommodation, dining and leisure facilities for downtime between drives.

The next trail takes you deeper into the Sariska landscape. Neelkanth lies within the reserve amid the Aravallis and is reached by rough roads and steep turns. The temple complex is known for its detailed stone carvings and isolated setting, with Rajasthan Tourism noting the architecture as comparable in style to Khajuraho. Rather than treating it as a quick temple stop, allow time to walk around the scattered structures and look closely at the carvings. Its setting within the forest is as much a part of the experience as the architecture.

Sariska Tiger Reserve brings the wildlife element to the route. Spread across the Aravallis, the reserve includes dry deciduous forests, grasslands, hills and rocky terrain and supports species including tiger, leopard, sambar, chital, wild boar and several bird species. A safari can also include Kankwari Fort, a remote hilltop structure within the reserve. The fort is associated with Mughal history and is traditionally identified as the place where Aurangzeb imprisoned his brother Dara Shikoh. Access is through the reserve rather than as an independent roadside visit, making it something to factor into a safari itinerary.

Another route through Sariska leads to Pandupol Hanuman Temple, a pilgrimage site associated with the Mahabharata. The temple stands near a seasonal waterfall and rock formations, giving the stop a different character from the fort and wildlife experiences elsewhere on the circuit. If the schedule allows, extend the trip towards Abhaneri for Chand Baori. Built in the 9th century, the stepwell is known for its tightly arranged 3,500 steps, geometric layout and three-storeyed pavilion. It was designed for water conservation and also served as a community space.

The resulting itinerary moves from Bhangarh’s ruins and folklore through Ajabgarh’s hills and heritage sites into Sariska’s forests and lots more in the region.

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