He returned to centuries past only to discover a future full of possibilities. After spending almost three decades in the US, Dhruba Narayan Kundu returned to his ancestral property in West Bengal’s Itachuna village with the desire to give back to the village that has been home to his forefathers for over 200 years.
Centuries-old ‘rajbaris’ or palaces of West Bengal are objects of absolute intrigue and fascination. The Kundu family-owned Itachuan Rajbari, rich in heritage and history, is one such opulent structure in the Hoogly district; a two-hour drive from Kolkata.
For years this daunting palace remained out-of-bounds for the weary traveller, playing host to mostly film and television crews. The last shoot was for the Ranveer Singh-Sonakshi Sinha starrer Lootera slated for a 2013 release. But in the last one year, under the aegis of 62-year-old Dhruba Kundu and Mylestones & Journeys, a hospitality arm of a tourist operator, the ‘rajbari’ is being promoted as a heritage home-stay. And Kolkatans who were blissfully unaware of its existence so close to city limits are waking up to the prospect of spending a day or two at the palace that was built way back in 1766.
Once off the national highway, the drive through picturesque rural Bengal leads to the brick-red magnanimous structure. Between 1741-1751, marauding Maratha warrior groups called ‘bargis’ in Bengali invaded erstwhile Bengal and some made it their home. Of these ‘bargis’, the ‘kundans’ later known as ‘kundus,’ formed one such faction. Safallya Narayan Kundu built Itachuna Rajbari almost two-and-a-half centuries ago and in 1896, his son Narayan Kundu and Dhruba’s father refurbished the palace. With the Government of India’s policy of abolishing raj-culture, much of the family’s property was taken away to set up schools and hospitals. Current owners, Dhruba and his brother Basav Narayan Kundu, intend to restore the palace to its lost glory. “We want to follow the Rajasthan model to promote heritage home-stays in palaces. We stopped film shooting because there is a lot of hassles and damage done to the property. We want to give back to society by bringing in tourists and aiding the economic development of the village in the process,” says Dhruba Kundu.
A walk through the palace is a must on the to-do list. Like in most palaces, here too there’s an ‘antarmahal’ or inner chambers complete with living quarters and stairways meant for the ladies of the house who were guarded from the prying eyes of outsiders. The ‘puja ghar’ or temple with its evening devotion transports you to a world far removed from the present. The massive terrace is another pleasant spot to spend the evening but beware of the monkeys! The ‘nautch ghar’ or dancing room is particularly captivating with its beautiful chandelier and ancient hand-drawn fans mounted on the ceiling. Much of the old furniture has been left untouched. The pictures of ancestors adorning the walls, old metal caskets, antique chairs, wooden tables, ornate bedposts and stretched low-lying sofas make time stand still. Itachuna Rajbari currently has 11 rooms which serve
for accommodation.
“Our main aim is to preserve the history of the place. We’re often asked why we don’t hand it over to a five-star chain. But we think that it would cause a loss of the actual charm of Itachuna Rajbari. Instead we want to promote village tourism through it,” says Raj Bhattacharjee, one of the promoters of Itachuna Rajbari. If you’re expecting to bask in the lap of luxury; this isn’t the place, well, at least not yet. Air-conditioners work through generators, which need to be booked at least two days before your trip. The staff is not hotel-trained but that’s hardly a deterrent. They are courteous, honest and hard-working, striving to make your stay comfortable. The simple yet delicious Bengali food is a must-try. From divine ‘luchis with saada alu’r tarkari’, ‘dhokar dalna’ and ‘shukto’ to the sumptuous ‘kasha maangsho’, the menu represents some of the best age-old dishes from Bengali cuisine. All in all the rajbari makes for a pleasant home-stay with oodles of potential. And don’t forget to visit some other tourist spots such as the Bandel Church, Chinsura Imambara, Pandua Minar and the French settlement of Chandannagar on your way back to Kolkata.