Perfection that transcends time

CHENNAI: Painted a soothing yellow rather than the erstwhile brilliant white, CSI St Mary’s Church stands the test of time. While there is a lot of activity going on with people talking, (some engrossed in phone conversations while others sit under trees sipping coffee and exchanging stories) policemen patrolling, bikes speeding by, the sound of air conditioners running, there, amidst all the chaos that is expected on a Monday morning at a place that houses the Secretariat, stood the quaint church that was completely unperturbed by everything happening around.

This is the first church that was built by the British, East of Suez. The roof was built entirely of ‘bricks in three semi-circular masses of solid masonry, two feet in thickness’ to withstand bombing or any other contingency. One can’t help but admire such foresight.
As one walks through the gates one finds a majestic yet simple wooden door open to visitors and those who seek some time for peace and prayer. Flanked by potted plants and trees, the place exudes a warm and welcoming feel.

The first thing that strikes a visitor is the beautiful memorials carved in marble, in honour of various people. The workmanship, which is both elaborate and remarkable, makes one wonder how this level of perfection was attained in an era devoid of technology and sophisticated machinery.
The altar painting, a copy of Raphael’s infamous ‘Last Supper’, decorates the centre of the church. It was painted by an unknown artist and is believed to have been brought by the British from Pondicherry in 1761.

The semicircular stained glass paintings that lie above each of the large open windows contain colourful floral designs and crests. The detailing is splendid and enough to leave a visitor’s mouth gaping.
At the altar, the organ stands in all its glory on the left side.

The friendly and helpful priest of the church, Reverend Dr J Krubhalily Elizabeth, told me that this is the fifth organ that has been installed in the church and that it dates back to 1894. It looked right out of the ‘Phantom of the Opera’ movie! It is played at almost every service, she said. She pointed out to the altar rails and said that they were originally presented by the Princess of Tanjore in 1877.

The reading lectern that stood opposite the pulpit with its intricate floral carvings was originally given to St Mary’s by Lady Hobart, whose memorial can also be found in the church. Just below the lectern lie the graves of a few prominent Governors who ruled Madras. One of the graves that I found particularly striking was that of Sir Thomas Munro, who served as the Governor of Madras for seven years. Made of black Pallavaram granite, the font is placed near the entrance to the garden. It is where all the baptisms take place and dates back to 1680.

The gorgeous wooden cover was made in 1885. Registers of baptisms, marriages and burials dating from 1680 are found in the history section. The first entry in the register was that of Elihu Yale, Governor of Fort St George and an active member of St Mary’s. An interesting fact is that Yale University was named
after him.

Elizabeth explained that the church had a Bible as old as 1660 AD as well as some silver plates and a pure silver plaque, but now all that has been handed over to the Fort Museum. She then showed me the intricately carved balustrade, and said that it was made of Burma teak and dates back to 1680.
“I have been priest here for a few years,” said Reverend Elizabeth.

“You may not get what you pray for here, but you will get what you need, the direction you need to follow.” The church is a popular spot with historical significance as well with not just schools visiting but many tourists too. It is also a site that comes under the Archeological Survey of India. There is a committee that looks into the working and functioning of the church headed by Elizabeth while Rt Rev Dr J George Stephen, CSI Bishop in Madras handles all the churches of the diocese including St Mary’s Church.

The garden is a perfect spot for those who wish to engage in quiet contemplation. People sit there all the time looking at all the trees and plants, listening to the sounds of the birds, and meditating once engulfed by a feeling of calm and quiet — forgetting about everything else…
There is a curved staircase at the entrance from which all the Governors made their way into the church and sometimes even interacted with people, the priest told me. As one descends the stairs, there are very elaborate inscriptions on the stone slabs. These are all the numerous tombstones that lie beneath the curved staircase and between the north wall and the railings. The priest explained that only eminent people’s tombstones were found inside the church.

The rest were all accommodated outside.
As the needle on the clock inched closer to 1:20 pm, Elizabeth quickly excused herself as it was time for the next service. At 1:30 pm, the sound of the church bell resounded in the Secretariat premises, reminding passersby of not only the time but also of its existence- of a time that has long passed but can be relived just by walking into the church premises.
It is truly a surreal experience — as the moment you leave the church, you’re jolted back to reality from an island of tranquility.