Anthropologists believe that the migrating civilisations of early human beings used body covering to escape from varying adverse climatic conditions. Evidence suggests that human beings may have begun wearing clothing as far back as 100,000 to 500,000 years ago, but nobody is sure. What started with animal skin and vegetation, soon became a symbol of gender, lifestyle, prestige, occupation, taste, affordability, climate, culture, religion, time of the day among others and found itself to be pragmatic in being accepted.
Specific to India, we have saris, salwar kameez, skirts, shirts, trousers, jeans, corduroys, one-fourth pants, minis, etc for women and trousers, shirts, ties, suits, jeans, bermudas, pajamas, dhotis, lungis, etc for men. It is common now a days to find women wearing clothing initially intended for men, but never vice versa until and unless there is a medical condition or a psychological bent in the man.
So, while jeans, trousers, suits, ties, cufflinks, watches, shoes, and even deodorants have been adopted by women in their daily lifestyle to make a strong fashion statement of being at par, there is now an increasing demand for the banal men’s wear too.
Take the case of the lungi. Generally associated with home-wear or night wear, it is symbolic to ‘I am at ease’ mood for men in India. But in certain parts of the country, like Tamil Nadu, Kerala, UP, Bihar, Orissa, West Bengal, lungis are accepted as being an occupational wear also.
It is particularly popular in these regions because the heat and humidity create an unpleasant climate for trousers. While in most parts of these states, the pattern of the lungi differs, what has now caught the attention of women as well as international fashion connoisseurs is the ‘Madras Checks’.
Hand-woven with crisscrossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours, this cotton fabric, supposed to be inspired by Tartan - the Scottish regiment’s dress that occupied southern India in the 1800s - is now finding its place across the world, not only with men but with women too...of course, the actual intentional of the lungi has been recreated to cover the top. So, now there are Madras Checks Shirts for men and women apart from casual trousers and shorts too.
The fabric of Lungi has now shed its mundane reputation among boys and girls in Bangalore as well as other cities and is now beginning to find a niche for itself as a fashion statement.
The fabric is now being made into several apparels for casual wear, considering the fact that the material is soft cotton and very comfortable to be in. Many young college girls choose Madras checks to make kurtas for themselves. Smriti Antony, a student of the St.Joseph’s college of Arts and Science shares, “Plain lungis with different borders work well for kurtas. The first time I made a kurta out of a lungi, I used the black lungi which pilgrims usually wear to Sabrimala. Keeping the body plain, the borders look nice for the sleeves and neck.”
Well, when the girls are getting on with the new trend, the boys are not the ones who want to be left behind. Shorts and bermudas are being made out of this material to beat off the summer heat and stay cool. George Tobias, also a student of St Joseph’s college says “Lungis are the ‘in’ thing now. Everybody sports checkered shorts and now I even see shirts.” The humble two metres of checkered is now much in demand among folks turning them into hand-stitched dresses, shorts, kurtas and scarves.
Not only are tops, kurtas and shorts being made from this material but it is also desired for blouse materials for plain sarees.
Elizabeth Antony, a teacher from Bethany High says “Multi-coloured lungis caught my attention when I was travelling in Kerala. They work really well for a blouse against a plain cotton Kerala saree. I like the tiny checked ones the best. The material is also very comfortable for the summer heat.”
A city based fashion designer, Nageshwar C, said “People these days not only want to make all sorts of clothes out of lungis but even old saris.”
Lungis, therefore, are back in fashion now. The men’s statement style attire is taking on a new avatar lately and youngsters in the city are sourcing the fabric from Wayanad and other places to create an interesting ensemble for themselves.
Continued from Page1 Kavtita Parmar, who is a Madrid-based fashion designer is responsible, in more ways than one in taking Madras checks to international fame (even Oprah Winfrey seems to have a liking for it). Through her initiative, IOWEU or IOU, Kavita has been able to give this ‘taken for granted’ clothing, a much innovative touch of class.
The fabric is made by hand in India, and the actual assembly is done in Europe, which is also a very elaborate handmade process. Each item is made from two meter lungi.
Weavers enrolled in IOU initiative have been encouraged to ensure high standards and the initiative even offers them an additional cash compensation equal to 100 per cent of the wage they customarily receive for weaving each fabric.
It is essential to maintain high standards because Madras Checks have also been internationally called ‘Bleeding Madras’. This because the dyes used were not colour-fast and as a result fading was common. But it was marketed in such a way internationally that the demand increased. The marketing tag, ‘Guaranteed to Fade’ became a hit and people loved the idea of a new fabric and a new look each time the material was washed.
The cost of a Madras Checks internationally ranges from $ 75 to $ 160 in the US to about 80 Euros in Europe. In India, the cost at a branded showroom is in the range of Rs 700 to Rs 1500. Ironically, our earthly lungi costs nothing more than Rs 150 to Rs 250 or about $5!