When Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni posted a now viral selfie, Indian girls everywhere immediately felt a spark of recognition in something that’s in all our jewellery boxes – a pair of dangly silver jhumkas. “It was a surprise because she was wearing jhumkas with a western outfit (blazer); you don’t generally associate them with an outfit like that. It has always been a timeless part of Indian jewellery, but with global fashion becoming more inclusive, traditional pieces are finally being seen and appreciated internationally,” says Akanksha Chhabra, co-founder of fashion label Pastels and Pop.
The ubiquitous piece of jewellery also grabbed eyes at the Paris Fashion Week when Ralph Lauren models walked the runway wearing them with pantsuits, ties, blazers and even leather jackets. With the spotlight on these indo-western experiments, image consultant Bia Sandhu has some tips for those wanting to swap studs and hoops for jhumkas. “For a formal look of black trousers with a structured blazer, go for smaller or medium-sized gold jhumkas. Gold automatically gives a more formal effect compared to silver or multi-coloured pieces,” shares Sandhu while Chhabra cautions, “I would avoid jhumkas with too many or too big danglers with structured clothes because it starts looking informal.”
If suits and blazers feel like too much outside of corporate board rooms, jhumkas go well with informal summer outfits too, according to popular jewellery brand Quirksmith’s founder Divya Batra. “I love wearing single-colour dresses with clean silhouettes and pairing them with jhumkas. The sleeker the dress, the more the jewellery gets to shine and highlight the face. I also combine those with stacks of bangles and rings.” Sandhu adds her own idea, “Flared skirts and polka dots are in. I’d pair a long polka dot skirt with a white shirt and medium sized silver jhumkas – informal but trendy.”
Apart from jhumkas, experts point out the Indian roots of anklets gaining popularity in the last year and saree-like drapery showing up frequently on runways as evidence of India currently having a moment in global fashion. But why now? Chhabra explains, “Part of it may be that many Indian personalities like Sonam Kapoor and Alia Bhatt are doing a fabulous job showcasing Indian labels and Indian-inspired clothing on red carpets around the world. People are going gaga over them and big brands and fashion houses are seeing that.”
While the internet went gaga over Meloni, the response to Ralph Lauren labelling the jhumkas sported by its models merely ‘vintage earrings’ did not get the same warmth. With netizens calling out the dubious ethics of ‘taking inspiration’ without credit. While Prada recently announced that they would be manufacturing all their (now renamed) Kolhapuri sandals in Karnataka and Maharashtra to make amends after their own controversy last year, Ralph Lauren recently launched a skirt resembling bandhani with no mention of the craft. Chhabra hopes that others follow Prada’s example, saying, “India has amazing jewellers. Brands like Ralph Lauren have much more access to easily getting their production done from Indian artisans. I’m sure crediting the craft would bring more emotion and authenticity for customers too.” While Batra agrees, she adds that even if the brand does not come around, it’s impossible to get away with it today. “Questions will be asked, news will be made and people will ultimately know through good, bad or ugly ways that this is bandhani or this is a jhumka. It’s making India fashion shine on the world map either way,” she says.