Under the silent skies of Chennai city, last week, a rhythm was noticed. A pattern of hands holding long wooden sticks, clicking against steel pots, stirring continuously with devotion, grief, and memory, keeping alive a tradition rooted in centuries-old sorrow.
As they churned, the air in makeshift kitchens across the city was thick with the aroma of grains, spices, and meat. The dish in preparation is ‘Khichda’, an emotionally-rooted meal in remembrance and reverence for Imam Hussain, the grandson of Prophet Muhammad, and his martyrdom in the Battle of Karbala, a conflict between Imam Hussain and Yazid I, the Umayyad Caliph.
The echo of Karbala
In the course of the battle, Imam Hussain’s family members were held captive and faced hardships, such as inaccessibility to food and water. In remembrance, the Dawoodi Bohras break their fast on Ashura, the tenth day of Muharram, by consuming this dish, which is known today as khichda.
Rashida Mustansir Wankanerwala of city-based Hatimy Caterers narrates that the origin of this dish lies in the aftermath of the Battle of Karbala. “When Imam Hussain was martyred, his family members were denied food and water for three days by the enemies. They were given a porridge-like dish made from a mix of pulses and meat,” she says. The ritualistic preparation of the dish is an expression of grief, solidarity, and historical continuity.
The method and meaning
Rashida adds that the dish was never meant to be significant at the time. “The whole idea for them (enemies) was to give them (family) something which was not even a dish at the time.” The Umayyad’s army wanted to serve the family with anything they had with them.
Over time, the dish has evolved. Today, it is prepared by using a mix of rice, meat, wheat and pulses, which is soaked overnight. “The next day, we start cooking the rice and pulses in water by adding spices — green chillies, ginger-garlic paste. It is very fluid in consistency,” explains Rashida.
The main taste of the dish comes when mutton is added to the fluid. “The liquid-like consistency from pulses and rice is then cooked on a low flame till the mutton and the mix come together. It is then hand churned. When done, you can readily eat with a spoon,” Rashida says, adding, “Khichda is a mix of vitamins, minerals from pulses, and carbs with rice and wheat. You can even cook it with chicken, but traditionally, we make it with mutton.”
History reimagined
As with many traditional dishes, modern lifestyles have introduced adaptations. Khichda also has its own diet version. People make it with oats. “In this method, no ingredient is to be soaked overnight and it is cooked instantly. Neither rice nor dal is added. It is prepared by adding oats in a cooker or already tenderised meat.”
But during Ashara Mubaraka, the scale and tradition are paramount. “On the tenth day, our community prepares khichda for all the attendees. It is cooked in stainless steel vessels, with a big and thick wooden stick to stir and mash the mix, which takes around two to three hours. The more it’s cooked, the more flavourful it gets,” she adds.
The meal is often completed with side dishes like kadi and kolu. “Kolu is a pumpkin curry gravy. It is a spicy gravy, but a little bit of jaggery is added to make it a little sweet and sour. Kadi is made with the basil, the gram flour, curd and all the spices, onions, green chillies, everything mixed into it.”
Once cooked, khichda is served in a bowl, garnished with fried onions, mint leaves and a piece of lime on the sides, making it a complete meal in itself. A big thali is kept in the centre, and community members sit in a circle to consume it after reading a specific dua.
On top of khichda, some kadi and colu are poured. Additionally, based on regions, the dish is consumed with bread. “Khichda was traditionally consumed whole but nowadays people prefer it with chapathi, pav, or mata — a huge rumali roti,” she notes.
With each spoon, the historical pain associated with the dish is brought to memory. It reminds the community of everything that Imam Hussain stood for — justice, truth and harmony. “Khichda is a part of our cuisine, and it reminds us of our culture. It has been carried out through our ancestors. It is a very wholesome dish, which marks our remembrance of Imam Husain, his companions, and their sacrifice in Karbala. This dish is prepared with respect and usually shared with neighbours. Though the tragedy of Karbala occurred more than fourteen hundred years ago, it remains fresh in our hearts and minds,” concludes Rashida.