HYDERABAD: Nice and sunny, just after a shower, London to Salisbury was quick. Didn’t seem like ninety minutes. That’s because the talkative guide engaged us in conversation. Wanted to know if we have seen Taj Mahal, and all the standard questions about India, Bollywood and our routine answers. And to be greeted in the restaurant with a ‘ Namaste’ from a guy, who still can’t get over his India visit!
There it stood, the grand
Salisbury Cathedral, one of the finest medieval churches in England. For a few minutes I gazed at the magnificent structure before going in. This grand structure with its elegant and imposing spire has inspired many an artist, John Constable being the foremost among them. Its impressive single architectural style in Early English Gothic was possible because it was built in just 38 years (1220-1258). The imposing tower and spire (Britain’s tallest) were added after more than 50 years. The Cloister and Chapter House too were included subsequently.
British history is closely woven into the story of this creation. Starting as part of the Catholic Church, later it became an inspiration in the Church of England when Henry VIII split from the Church of Rome in 1534. Religion played a great role in British history, as in many other cultures of the world.“These massive pillars, ladies and gentlemen, are more than 700 years old ”, the guide said proudly. This was followed by some long drawn “ Wo.............ws ” . Few wondered aloud, “ Hey man...it’s crazy!!” , “ You kidding? ”.For two seconds the guide looked grave and said “ I am serious....we do have history, you see?! ”, and proceeded to the next stop. Yes, they looked awesomely well preserved, but slightly bent out of shape by the weight of the tower.
Salisbury Cathedral is much more than a historical monument. Earlier known as The Cathedral Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary, it is a living church that attracts a large number of pilgrimage visitors every year. As the Cathedral Church of the Salisbury diocese, it is the Mother Church of several hundred parishes in Wiltshire and Dorset. In 2008, the cathedral celebrated the 750th anniversary of its consecration in 1258.
To me, the medieval clock looked like half a dozen wheels assembled together with some pulleys and weights. The clock has no face because all clocks of that date rang out the hours on a bell. To me, a clock without a face didn’t look like a clock by any stretch of the imagination. It was originally located in a bell tower and when it was demolished, the clock was shifted to the Cathedral Tower where it was in operation. The clock was then placed in storage and forgotten until it was discovered in 1929, in an attic of the cathedral. It was repaired and restored to working order in 1956. Again in 2007 remedial work and repairs were carried out to the clock. Its unappealing look certainly eclipsed its impressive background.
As I went around, I saw the tombs of past bishops and famous saints. There were also tombs of the wealthy and influential people in the side altars. The sculptures looked so real and appeared as if all those people were resting in marble.The cloister, supposed to be the largest in England looked splendid with arcades all around. Added in the late 13th century, it was a rectangular open space surrounded by covered walks. With open arcades on the inner side running along the walls of buildings, it formed a courtyard. Non-intrusive, this place looked ideal for the cloistered lives of the monks.
The Magna Carta, with a heavy history behind its awe-inspiring presence, was enclosed in a glass case in the Chapter House. I knew that this parchment had altered the rule of law in England, protecting the rights of the individual, and its fundamental principles were adopted later by many other countries in their constitutions. Apart from gazing at it with admiration, I couldn’t make head or tail of it. My miniscule knowledge of Latin didn’t help.
The West Front was striking with its tall turrets, niched buttresses, spirelets and gables.
It was highly ornamental with motifs, columns and bands. The five- level of niches had statues of angels, archangels, old testament patriarchs, apostles, evangelists, martyrs, doctors and philosophers. On the lower level stood the royalty, priests and worthy people connected with the cathedral.
The wide and tall façade was almost 100 feet high. The Choral Evensong began, encompassing the whole place with a soft music, lifting the soul. It was like being carried on the wings of an angel! The huge cathedral, filled with peace, looked heavenly.I have a great respect for heritage and even greater respect for those who preserve it for posterity.