Some changes happen so quietly that you barely notice them until one day, the mirror tells you otherwise. The face looking back may still be yours, but something feels different — cheeks not sitting quite as high, the jawline less defined, and softness under the eyes that wasn’t there before. For Indian faces, ageing plays out in ways that are distinct from the rest of the world.
What makes Indian skin age more slowly compared to Western skin? “Indian skin has more melanin, which offers natural UV protection, slowing sun-induced ageing like wrinkles and pigmentation,” says Dr S Madhuri, consultant dermatologist at Apollo Hospitals, Secunderabad. That means fine lines and sunspots tend to appear later than they do on Western skin.
Yet nature works in interesting contradictions, explains Dr Sherin Jose, consultant dermatologist at Yashoda Hospitals, Hyderabad (Secunderabad), “Indian skin’s thickness and melanin make it resistant to wrinkles, but the underlying support structure, especially the bone and fat in the face, may lose volume and descend early in life. Even if wrinkles are less noticeable, drooping around the jawline (jowls) and beneath the eyes may emerge sooner as the cheekbones lose shape and the facial fat pads move downward.” So, while the skin may remain relatively smooth, sagging around the jawline or hollows under the eyes can appear much sooner.
The reasons lie deeper than skin. “Facial bone loss reduces support for overlying skin and fat, causing hollowing, sagging, and deeper folds,” says Dr Madhuri. And over time, gravity lends its pull. “Due to gravity and deteriorating ligaments, face fat slips downward as we age rather than remaining high and plump. This redistribution makes the jawline heavy, highlights the nasolabial folds (the lines that run from nose to mouth), and produces hollows beneath the eyes and cheekbones. Even in the absence of deep wrinkles, the loss, fall, or clumping of fat gives faces a worn-out, aged appearance,” notes Dr Sherin. This shift doesn’t just create heaviness along the jawline; it deepens smile lines and makes the under-eye area look more tired.
Even within India, the ageing story is not the same for everyone. “North Indians often show volume loss first, South Indians show sagging, and East Indians show puffiness or eyelid changes,” says Dr Madhuri. And according to Dr Sherin, bone and fat loss can cause mid-face flattening and under-eye hollows because North Indian faces may have more pronounced bone structures. “Though it may experience deeper pigmentation and volume loss, South Indian skin, which has higher melanin content, tends to withstand surface wrinkles better. Because Northeast faces often have thinner skin and softer features, sagging and fine lines may show up differently, with more early laxity or puffiness,” she adds.
And then there’s modern city life, where stress seems to make people even in their 20s or 30s look way older than they are. “Chronic urban stress causes skin cell damage and inflammation because it is brought on by pollution, sleep deprivation, irregular eating habits, and ongoing pressure. Even in young people, stress chemicals like cortisol accelerate oxidative damage and collagen loss, which leads to the early onset of fine lines, puffy eyes, dullness, and uneven skin tone,” says Dr Sherin. Dullness, fine lines, puffiness, or a slightly blurred jawline may be the first signs, which are often easy to ignore until they deepen.
Treatments for Indian skin need to be approached differently. “Instead of only reducing wrinkles, treatments should target pigmentation control and volume restoration. Preferable procedures include fillers to strengthen the midface and jawline, mild chemical peels to address hyperpigmentation, and tools designed for higher melanin content (to prevent burns or discoloration). Customised, less aggressive protocols are safer and more successful because Indian skin may react differently to lasers and powerful retinoids,” says Dr Sherin, who recommends gentler protocols suited for higher melanin content. Dr Madhuri adds that Indian treatments should focus more on lifting and volume restoration, not just wrinkle reduction, due to heavier skin.
But perhaps the real secret lies not in turning back the clock, but in slowing it down. Sunscreen, nutrient-rich food, exercise, sleep, and stress control still top the list. As Dr Sherin puts it, “Early intervention, moderation, and protection are essential for Indian faces hoping to age naturally and gracefully.” While time will always leave its mark, the way it writes on your face is a story you can still help shape.
Safest preventive treatments for younger Indians to delay ageing, by Dr Sherin Jose
Antioxidant serums with daily broad-spectrum sunscreen (such as vitamin C)
Exfoliation with mild chemicals (AHAs/BHAs — under supervision)
Light peels and hydrating facials
Topical retinoids prescribed by a doctor or bakuchiol (a milder substitute)