Her passion for sarees led her to focus deeply on handlooms. Varshitha Keshava, founder of Amrtesvari Satika and a Karnataka-based textile revivalist, has been actively promoting traditional weaves through exhibitions and curated collections. As she seeks to connect with audiences in Hyderabad through workshops, CE interacts with Varshitha about her journey, work with weavers, and vision for preserving India’s textile heritage.
Excerpts
When did your passion for designing and styling sarees began?
From a young age, I have always been drawn to sarees. After my graduation, I wanted to start something of my own, but circumstances didn’t permit. I spent nearly eight years in the corporate sector, and during the pandemic, I felt a strong urge to start a business. Textiles felt like a natural choice because they are part of my family’s legacy — my father and many from my family have worked in the garment industry.
I realised that sarees were something I was deeply passionate about. I began selling them on Instagram. Within four months, I understood that a saree is not just a piece of fabric, but a generational treasure that carries cultural value.
During this journey, I understood the differences between powerloom and handloom. I realised that powerlooms have taken away many traditional jobs, and handlooms, on the other hand, have been gradually fading from the industry. Fabric has become cheaper, but this raised an important question for me: what about the livelihoods of weaving communities? This led me to think about rural communities, and the role of women involved in weaving. I began studying the challenges within the industry and how I could contribute as a revivalist to preserve what is slowly disappearing. I also understood the importance of being a curator, who can communicate these stories to wider audiences.
Being from Karnataka, I believe our textiles are no less significant than those of any other state in India. I also wanted to explore diversity and learn about fabrics from other regions. I then realised that Telangana has a strong appreciation for traditional attire, and women here are particularly fascinated with handloom sarees. Though I come from a different state, I feel respected for my work, and this encouraged me to introduce people to the richness of Karnataka’s textiles.
Tell us about how you work with the weavers.
In July 2024, I began closely studying how weaving processes function. I visited powerloom factories in Doddaballapur, Karnataka, where there is minimal human involvement. During my interactions with weavers, I learned that this generational craft is losing relevance among younger generations. Many feel that handloom is expensive, labour-intensive, and not financially viable. Traditional techniques and methods no longer attract those from weaving families, and fewer people are willing to learn the craft. This remains one of the biggest concerns. While travelling across Karnataka, I also discovered that there are five major weaving communities, each with unique traditions that require support and recognition.
What are the challenges with design?
I do not think design itself is a challenge. Even today, people proudly wear their mothers’ and grandmothers’ sarees — because it is an emotion for every woman. Sarees continue to be preserved and cherished, even those worth several lakhs. What has evolved is styling. Modernisation is more about how sarees are draped and presented rather than changes in the fabric. Retro styles continue to make a comeback, and while the final product may remain traditional, styling plays a crucial role in connecting with younger generations.
Tell us about your workshops.
My workshops focus entirely on sarees and textiles. I believe sarees are not restricted by gender or age, and can be adapted for anyone. One of the key aspects of these workshops is to show that a saree can be draped in multiple ways. There are nearly a hundred draping styles, and we aim to demonstrate how traditional drapes can be adapted for the 21st century.
Another focus area is textile education. We teach participants how fabric is created — from the agricultural stage to the finished product. These workshops will be short and interactive, typically involving 10–15 participants interested in the fashion industry. We also conduct saree draping sessions for homemakers. I am keen to learn more about Telangana’s weaving traditions as well.
What’s the roadmap ahead?
I plan to connect with weavers in Telangana and explore regional weaving traditions more deeply. I want to learn about Pochampally and Kanjivaram textiles and understand its nuances. I want to study silk traditions in Telangana and continue my work in textile revival.