There is a certain warmth to Chhath Puja in Bihar, where age-old rituals are lovingly preserved and recipes become as much a part of the celebration as the prayers themselves. As the state comes alive with devotional songs, the fragrance of festive cooking and families preparing for the rituals ahead, the festivities begin in the kitchen with a humble yet significant dish — lauki bhat.
Prepared on Nahay Khay, the first day of the four-day festival, this simple combination of bottle gourd, rice and dal carries a significance that goes far beyond the plate, reflecting the purity, nourishment and familiarity at the heart of the celebration.
The ritual of making lauki bhat is closely linked to the seasonality of bottle gourd. Ammanna Raju, executive chef of Novotel Hyderabad Airport explains, “The dish of lauki bhat is very closely related to the fact that lauki is seasonal and easily available in all households. This makes it an ideal dish to start the auspicious chhath puja.” The reason for combining the vegetable with rice is to provide nourishment before the fast. He explains, “The abundance of the vegetable along with the seasonal availability plays an important part to combine with the staple of rice to boost the strength before the three-day long fast.”
Sudha Rani, a home chef who has celebrated chhath puja since she was young believes the simplicity of lauki bhat makes it special. “The ingredients are kept simple, and the food is prepared with great care. The lauki is cooked simply so that its natural flavour comes through. We usually prepare it without adding too many spices or making it rich. The idea is to keep the meal light and wholesome. Cleanliness is equally important, as the food is prepared as part of a religious observance.”
Nutritionally lauki is a great source of hydration and contains essential minerals. “Lauki bhat has high amount of water and also essential minerals for the body. In Ayurveda, lauki is considered to have restorative value with all essential minerals and vitamins. Traditionally lauki bhat is made in earthenware pots and hygiene is religiously followed to ensure that the purity of the ritual is intact,” Chef Ammanna notes.
Agreeing with Chef Ammanna, Sudha also explains how it is important to eat something nourishing prior to the 36 hour fast. “Lauki has a high water content and is light on the stomach. Along with rice, dhaniya patta ki chutney, lauki pakoda and channa dal, it makes for a wholesome meal before devotees abstain from food and water. Since this is the last meal before the fast, it is important to eat something simple. We have followed this practice for years, and it has become an inseparable part of our Chhath celebrations.”
Although the ingredients and techniques aren’t complex the meal still holds an important place within the festival. It is a traditional meal, using seasonal ingredients and holds a lot of family memories and devotion.