Think sterling silver layered with 22-karat gold, carefully selected gemstones and the expertise of master artisans from across India, all coming together under one label. That’s what Apala by Sumit brings to the table, creating what its founder, Sumit Sawhney, describes as ‘modern heirlooms’. This distinctive design language comes to Hyderabad on September 23 and 24, as Apala by Sumit presents an intimate showcase at The Coalesce, Quorum. In a conversation with CE, Sumit gives us an insight into what’s in store for the Hyderabad audience, his design philosophy and more.
Excerpts
Tell us about Apala by Sumit.
Apala, derived from the Sanskrit word meaning ‘most beautiful’, was born in 2006 from my fascination with India’s incredible visual, artistic and craft heritage. I wanted to create jewellery that felt contemporary but carried the soul of something much older. Our signature is a distinctive fusion of history, art and craftsmanship with a contemporary sensibility.
Over the years, Apala has become known for its one-of-a-kind jewellery and signature style of fusion, with pieces worn by some of India’s most celebrated personalities, including Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor, Alia Bhatt and Kareena Kapoor, and seen on international platforms including Cannes and film festivals in Melbourne. But for me, the most important thing is that the jewellery has a personality of its own. It should not simply complete an outfit, but transform it.
What can Hyderabad expect from the upcoming showcase?
Hyderabad can expect an intimate introduction to the world of Apala, with a curated selection of our one-of-a-kind, collectible jewellery. The grandeur of the Nizams and Hyderabad’s extraordinary jewellery heritage have always fascinated me. There will be colour, texture, drama and individuality, with jewellery that moves effortlessly between Indian and Western dressing.
If Hyderabad were a piece of jewellery, what would it look like?
It would be a magnificent polki and emerald necklace — rich, layered and incredibly detailed, reflecting the grandeur of the Nizams, the beauty of Indo-Islamic architecture and the cultural richness of the Deccan. But I would imagine it in a more contemporary silhouette, with modern, elegant outlines while retaining intricate detailing and old-world craftsmanship. Perhaps old-cut diamonds, deep emeralds, architectural forms and unexpected details coming together in a way that feels both regal and relevant today.
How has your design language evolved over the years?
Over the years, Apala has evolved into a distinctive visual universe of its own. We have mastered and developed several rare jewellery-making techniques, created a vocabulary of signature motifs and built an exceptional collection of gemstones that allows us to tell stories through colour, texture and form. So, while the language continues to evolve, the philosophy remains constant: revive, reinterpret and reinvent.
Are there particular gemstones, materials or techniques that you have been particularly drawn to in your recent work?
I’m constantly drawn to gemstones that have personality rather than simply conventional perfection. As a trained gemologist and jewellery manufacturer, I have a deep understanding of gemstones, and every stone that goes into an Apala piece is personally hand-picked for its colour, character, texture and ability to contribute to the story of the design.
Lapis lazuli, polki, turquoise, aventurine, carnelian, iolite and emeralds have particularly fascinated me. More recently, we have been exploring intricate gemstone carving and the art of inlaying one gemstone within another, creating depth and unexpected visual detail.
What is one jewellery rule you would happily break?
That jewellery needs to be worn only on special occasions or that there should be rigid rules about who can wear what. I don’t design with strict boundaries between men’s and women’s jewellery. A sculptural necklace can look completely different on a man in a shirt or T-shirt and on a woman in a saree. An ear cuff can be worn traditionally or styled in a completely unexpected way. I want the wearer to bring their own personality to the piece.
What is one trend in jewellery you think is here to stay and one you would like to see disappear?
I think fusion and versatility are here to stay — wearing Indian jewellery with Western clothing, mixing different styles and creating a look that feels personal rather than prescribed. I also love the growing appreciation for pieces with an heirloom quality — jewellery that can move effortlessly across moods, times of day and occasions rather than being confined to one moment.
One trend I would love to see disappear is the idea of wearing an entire matching set where the necklace, earrings, ring and bracelet are all identical in design. I prefer jewellery to have a conversation rather than a repetition. There can be a connection or even a beautiful contrast between the pieces, but the styling should feel more eclectic, with the focus remaining on the hero piece.
What is the one piece every jewellery collector should own?
I’m particularly drawn to jewellery that can evolve with the wearer — detachable or modular pieces that can become more understated or more dramatic by adding or removing elements. That gives a piece longevity.