The quaint streets of Mattancherry are home to one of the area’s most popular food spots: Hotel City Star, more fondly known as Balan Chettante Kada. Established over three decades ago, this small eatery draws a wide range of people, from loyal regulars devoted to their porotta and mutton or beef chops, to die-hard foodies who travel great distances just to see what the fuss is all about.
“We don’t sell dishes like biryani here. Our menu only has porotta, idiyappam, vellayappam, puttu, and many curries to go with it. The most popular item here is meat chops. People from various places come to try it out, along with a few regular customers,” says P N Balan (fondly called Balan Chettan), while managing the cash register and a long queue of customers waiting to pay.
Though the hotel was set up 32 years ago, the style of food preparation has remained unchanged, and so has the staff. This consistency is one of the key reasons behind City Star’s enduring popularity. “Multiple food vloggers have visited, which attracted even more foodies to what we offer. Hotel City Star slowly became Balan Chettante Kada,” he smiled.
The eatery began as a pharmacy, which he later converted into a tea shop, and then into the hotel it is today. Many customers have remained with Balan Chettan through every phase of this evolution.
One of them is 48-year-old Faizal Hussain, who loves everything on offer. “I’ve been a customer here from the beginning. I can’t pinpoint a favourite dish – each one is unique in its own way. I come here every day and eat whatever I’m in the mood for,” he says.
Many youngsters are also drawn to the place for its atmosphere. “I like how they’ve maintained a nostalgic 1990s vibe,” says Amekh Biju, a 22-year-old MBA student.
“My friends and I used to visit Fort Kochi beach every Saturday morning as part of our service learning programme. After cleaning the beach, we always came to Balan Chettante Kada for breakfast. I love their porotta and mutton chops, with a cup of coffee. Going there is one of my fondest college memories,” recalls Arushi Raghu, who was a regular during her student days in Kochi.
It’s often said that anyone who eats here recommends the mutton and beef chops to family and friends. “A friend suggested this place to me. It’s my first time here and I loved the food. I’ll definitely come back,” says Kiran Sreenivas, 32, a Thalassery native who recently moved to Kochi.
“My family can’t get enough of the chicken fry and beef chops. Sometimes, my kids call and ask me to bring back a parcel,” Faizal laughs.
Despite the rise of aesthetic, Instagrammable cafes in the vicinity, Balan Chettante Kada continues to stand apart, thanks to its flavourful food and nostalgic charm.