Athachamayam, which marks the commencement of Onam celebrations in Tripunithura, is a decades-old tradition that traces its origins to the Cochin royal family. In its earliest form, the Maharaja would appear before the public in full regalia, accompanied by ministers, guards, musicians and caparisoned elephants. A host of folk art performances, too, would be conducted, adding to the grandeur of the occasion.
Over the years, the starting point of the procession shifted between royal residences such as the Puthen Bungalow, Kalikota Palace and, finally, the Hill Palace. In 1948, during the reign of Pareekshith Thampuran, the festivities were called off. The tradition was revived in 1961 by the state government under the name Athaghosham. Since 1978, the Tripunithura municipality has steered it as a cultural celebration.
True to form, this year’s procession was no different — vibrant, colourful and full of life. Minister P Rajeeve hoisted the Athapathaka, while actor Jayaram flagged off the procession from Atham Nagar (Boys’ High School). From there, it wound its way through the municipal bus stand, Kizhakkekotta, the old bus stand, SN Junction, Vadakkekota, Sree Poornathrayeesa Temple and back to the school.
At its head was Mahabali himself, greeting the crowds. The arrival of the royal cavalcade was announced by the nagara, though these days it features only a replica of the Maharaja’s palanquin. Behind it followed a dazzling line-up of Kerala’s traditional art forms such as pulikali, theyyam, thiruvathirakali, oppana, and margamkali, along with vivid depictions of popular deities.
Adding a playful twist, performers appeared as pop culture figures such as Luttapi, Dakini Ammoomma, Shikari Shambu, and even film stars. For many, Athachamayam is bound up with childhood memories. Jolly Cyriac, owner of Twin Arts Studio, recalls attending the procession with his father. “I never miss it. It’s grown much bigger in recent times,” he says.
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Amid the cultural displays, groups of NSS children carried placards urging people to donate blood and warning against drug abuse. The Agasthya Bharatha Kalari Sangham electrified the atmosphere with a vigorous kalaripayattu performance, winning applause.
As morning turned into afternoon, the sun beat down, the crowd thickened, and the procession gathered momentum. Volunteers at the People’s Urban Co-Operative Bank handed out glasses of refreshing sambaram to passers-by. Sureg S Menon, one of the volunteers, agrees with Jolly’s observation. “The celebration has indeed become larger and louder. Earlier, it used to end much sooner,” he notes.
His favourite segment is the tableaux presented towards the end. “There’s one I’ll never forget. A Jurassic Park-themed tableau from the year the film was released,” he recalls.
The rising clamour of melams heralded the arrival of the dancing kavadis, their choreographies a spectacle of colour and energy. As they passed, the much-awaited tableaux took centre stage. Among those watching was Bindu Unnikrishnan, who had travelled from Thrissur. “We have processions during Onam in Thrissur too, but they’re not this elaborate. The crowd here reminds me of Thrissur Pooram,” she remarks.
As the final tableaux rolled by and the crowd began to disperse, Shambhavi Rajan, waiting with her relatives for a cab to Thammanam, says, “We’re here after a couple of years, but didn’t expect such a huge procession. The celebration has grown beyond what we imagined.”
The Onam festivities will continue for the next ten days. At the Layam Koothambalam, the celebrations began with a nadaswaram kutcheri by Vaikom Anirudhan and his team, followed by the formal inauguration of the programmes at the auditorium at 6.30pm.
In the days to come, the heritage town will host an array of performances — puppet shows, musical ensembles, classical dance, plays, and more. The 10-day Onam festival promises to be as enriching and spirited as always.
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