Good-old tea stalls — or the classic pettikada — have now become an exotic sight amid the urban hubbub of Kochi cityscape. But for an average Malayali a few decades ago, they were an integral part of the tableau vivant of everyday life.
I did not expect to see one still standing as I turned left onto the wide street of modern buildings on Sebastian Road. But there they were — two unassuming, tin-roofed stalls. A normal adult would hardly fit inside them.
Two elderly men were engaged in deep conversation. As I neared, one of them got up and turned to his samovar, thinking I had stopped for tea.
I explained that I was there because I had heard of the two little shops that had quietly stood the test of time, and I wanted to know what kept them standing.
Thousands would relate to Joseph; their futures upended by shifting tides of rules.
Ramachandran’s trajectory was different. He worked at the Seena Theatre (now AJ Hall). “My jobs included checking tickets, sealing them, and cleaning. But I quit,” he recalled.
The work, he says, was too physically demanding. All he remembers is the sweaty shirt clinging to his body after a day’s hard labour. That’s when he decided to set up a tea stall.
Their worlds soon collided, and they have been together ever since. Ramachandran is 70, and Joseph, 65. They have seen the city evolve.
“There was practically nothing here,” said Ramachandran. Joseph pointed to a nearby Max store and added, “It used to be a workshop handling up to 40 buses.”
Life got tougher for them during the pandemic. With little money and almost no savings, they call that period ‘a real struggle’
Joseph’s business has taken a hit in recent years. “People no longer fix things. They go to brand stores for quick replacements. It’s the same with people. They give up on each other easily,” he said.
The city’s bustle invigorates them. It gives them purpose and hope.
“There were three of us originally. One sold cigarette. He left when his son got a good job. He visits now and then. There were other stalls too. All quit. Just us now,” said Joseph.
As I prepared to leave, Ramachandran offered me a cup of tea. Then, Joseph escorts me to an autorickshaw, and they — the two gentlemen — bade me goodbye with a smile.