In the shadow of the Taj Mahal, the age-old craft of zardozi embroidery is being reborn into luxury for the modern world. At ateliers like Shams Zardozi and the Ganeshi Lall Emporium in Agra, each stitch glimmers with legacy and aspiration. Once reserved for royalty, the embroidery is now captivating global fashion houses and luxury galleries. “Every piece is made to order, including embroidered panels, accessories, custom carpets. No two pieces are ever alike,” says Alark Lall, sixth-generation designer of Ganeshi Lall, established in 1845. The house continues to evolve through exclusive collaborations, such as with Los Angeles-based designer Melisa Pellone, who showcased her ‘East Meets West’ collection at New York Fashion Week 2024.
The artistry of zardozi—gold and silver threadwork embellished with gemstones—was redefined in the early 1900s by Sheikh Shamsuddin. While the pandemic posed an existential challenge, it also forced a pivot. “It was a time to consider newer avenues for the art to survive,” says Faizan Uddin, third-generation helmsman of Shams Zardozi, who has worked with Ashish Soni, Rahul Mishra, and even Alexander McQueen. The future now lies in positioning zardozi as couture with a design identity of its own. Galleries like Saffron Art are also curating embroidered renditions of artworks by Krishen Khanna and Thota Vaikuntham. As fashion embraces heritage, zardozi is thriving, redefined as wearable art for the world stage.