Arpooo... Irrooo...
The thunderous cry of the oarsmen is more than just a call. It is, falling back on a cliche, an emotion deeply woven into the identity of Malayalis. Especially those who grew up in Kuttanad.
And no matter how far life scatters people of the region, returning to where it all began has a way of making them feel alive again.
As the late Nedumudi Venu’s character memorably says in Jalolsavam: “More than an event, Vallamkali is a matter of personal pride for the people of Kuttanad.”
One does not grow up in Champakulam without hearing countless stories around every Vallamkali season. Yours truly grew up listening to tales of Champakulam Chundan, Kaarichal Chundan, Jawahar Thayamkary, and legendary boat clubs like UBC, VBC and Jesus Boat Club.
My grandfather was once the captain of the Champakulam Chundan, while my uncle rowed for the boat in the 1990s. So perhaps the passion runs in my blood.
But beyond the races themselves, what always fascinated me was their history.
The story of the Champakulam Moolam Boat Race is intertwined with the history of the Ambalapuzha Sree Krishna Temple. According to legend, in the 17th century, Chembakassery ruler Devanarayana found that the idol prepared for the newly built temple was unsuitable. He entrusted his minister, Parayil Menon, with finding a replacement.
The minister eventually brought an idol from the Karimkulam Parthasarathy Temple near Kurichi, close to Changanassery. “There are different versions of the story — one says the idol was taken with permission, while another claims it was secretly removed,” says Jolly Ethirettu, veteran boat race commentator in Champakulam.
On the return journey, Menon and his entourage halted for the night at the residence of Mappilassery Itty Thomman in Champakulam, as instructed by the king. The idol was temporarily installed there and a lamp was lit before it.
The following day, the king ceremonially received the idol, and it was escorted to Ambalapuzha by a fleet of snake boats after a reception near the Champakulam Kalloorkad Church.
“There is also a popular local belief that the church bell rang on its own as the idol passed by,” Jolly adds.
To commemorate the historic journey, the king is believed to have instituted an annual boat procession, which eventually evolved into today’s Champakulam Moolam Boat Race.
A reminder of that journey still survives. The Vazhakoombu Vilakku, the ceremonial lamp lit at the Mappilassery house, burns to this day.
Every year, ahead of the boat race, priests from the Ambalapuzha temple visit the family with prasadam in a ritual known as Moola Kazhcha. The Champakulam Kalloorkad Church, meanwhile, continues the tradition of presenting the ceremonial paya (woven mat) and kayar (coir rope) used for rituals ahead of the race.
The afternoon then comes alive with the spectacular mass drill, before the competition gets underway.
The event took on a competitive character in 1927, when it was formally inaugurated by the then Diwan of Travancore, M. E. Watts. In 1952, Travancore’s last ruling Maharaja, Sree Chithira Thirunal Balarama Varma, attended the race and instituted the prestigious Rajapramukhan Trophy for the winners.
What began as a royal mission has today become one of Kerala’s most cherished sporting traditions.
“It showcases community spirit as well as religious harmony,” says Jolly.
Held on the Pamba River on the Moolam day of the Malayalam month of Mithunam, the Champakulam Moolam Boat Race marks the beginning of Kerala’s Vallamkali season. It also serves as the first major outing for many snake boats before the Nehru Trophy Boat Race.
Though Kerala hosts several boat races, Champakulam Moolam remains one of the three oldest with deep historical significance, alongside the Payippad Jalolsavam and the Aranmula Uthrattathi Vallamkali.
“Champakulam comes alive with hundreds of country boats decked in festive colours, accompanied by music, vanchipattu and cheering crowds,” says Georgekutty Mathew, a former oarsman of the Champakulam Chundan. “More than Onam, Christmas or any other festival, this is the biggest celebration for every native of Champakulam.”
“The boat race is also a season of homecoming. Families reunite, friends gather after years apart, and even those settled abroad plan their vacations around race day. Every household prepares a grand feast. Walk into any house, and check it out for yourself.”
Meanwhile, the rhythmic chant of ‘thithithara thithithai’ echoes across the backwaters and reverberates in the hearts of everyone who calls Champakulam home.