It begins with raw fabric. Before any colour or pattern appears, it is first cleansed using soap nuts in lightly heated water for 24 hours, then left to dry in the shade. Mordanting follows, taking four to five days, preparing the fabric to hold natural pigments.
After another wash and dry cycle, the cloth is dipped in boiling water and left for nearly two days to achieve an even colour. Leaves and flowers are then arranged, the fabric rolled into bundles, and steamed for 24 to 48 hours, when the prints begin to form.
Once opened, the fabric reveals patterns shaped by nature. But the process continues with repeated washing, drying, and finally ironing - only then reaching its finished form.
For Harsha Thachani, this long, unhurried process is not just about making fabric. It is about learning to wait, to focus, and to let go of something she found herself holding onto during one of the most stressful phases of her life.
Based in Thalayolaparambu in Kottayam, Harsha did not begin eco-printing with the intention of building a brand. A history graduate, she had secured admission for postgraduation at Tata Institute of Social Sciences in 2022. That was when she happened to visit the Kochi-Muziris Biennale, where she met artist Nathalie Muchamad.
“I always wanted to do something artistic because the circle I grew up in was connected to art in some way,” Harsha says.
“Nathalie’s work at the Biennale was based in history. So I went on to work with her for six months as an intern. During that time, I came across natural dyeing and eco-printing.”
That’s how she learned the nuances of the process — using leaves, flowers, and fruits to bring natural pigments onto fabric.
It was only later, in Thiruvananthapuram, that the process took on a more personal meaning. While preparing for the UPSC exams, Harsha found herself struggling with the pressure. During that time, she kept returning to eco-printing not as a career move, but as a way to cope.
“It started as a therapeutic process, or I would say a distraction at first, just to slow down life,” she says. But what began as a small escape slowly became something that grounded her.
“My main problem was lack of concentration. However, after I started eco printing, I was able to thankfully focus, as this needs immense patience,” she explains. Each step demanded attention. Each stage requires a pause. “And in that rhythm, I somehow found clarity,” she smiles.
Using materials like avocado pits and seeds, pomegranate, onion skins, walnut, orange peel, cosmos flowers, and a wide range of leaves, Harsha creates patterns that can never be exactly repeated.
“Every print is unique. When we order something online, we expect the same product. But here, that will never happen. Only if nature decides, you might get something similar. Even in one bundle, the patterns will all be different,” she says.
What started within the walls of her home with the support of family and friends, and continued guidance from Nathalie, gradually grew into something more. With minimal investment beyond time and effort, Harsha began shaping her work into a small-scale venture.
At the age of 25, she launched her brand ‘Thachani’ last year.
Through it, she creates garments using mal cotton, linen, bamboo cotton, and hemp — materials suited to the local climate.
Most fabrics are sourced from the weaving community in Salem, while linen is brought from France through her mentor.
Her collection now includes men’s shirts and recently introduced pants, along with women’s wear such as dresses, crop tops, jumpsuits, and sarees. She has also launched baby wear, using natural elements like ‘ramacham’ (vetiver) and turmeric, ensuring the garments remain gentle on the skin.
At the same time, these garments require care. They cannot be washed with regular detergents and need mild, low-acid soaps. Drying should be done away from direct sunlight. “They are not for daily wear, but if we take care of them, they can last for years,” she explains.
“I used to sell it mostly through exhibitions, but the struggle was that I had to educate people about it. Still, I never try to impose it on anyone. I see this as my art, I’m selling my art, and if they like it, they can buy it.”
Looking ahead, she hopes to take her brand ‘Thachani’ to more people. With many reaching out to learn, she also plans to create a workshop-oriented space at her home, opening up the experience to others.