Kochi has no shortage of Arabic restaurants. But at Qum Qum in Kakkanad, it is not the typical Arabic dishes such as mandis or alfahams that draw people in. It is the Madhooth, a dish with Persian roots that is rarely found in the city.
Madhooth is often called a pressure-cooker mandi, but the cooking method makes all the difference. Instead of slow-cooking the meat and rice separately, everything is packed together in a sealed pressure cooker. The steam stays trapped inside, allowing the meat, rice and spices to blend. The result is soft, flavourful meat and aromatic rice. And all the meaty richness tickles the palate.
The recipe comes from chef Abdul Azeez, who spent over 15 years working in Saudi Arabia before bringing the dish to Kochi. He provides three options of Madhooth — chicken, beef and mutton. The chicken takes about 20 minutes to prepare, the beef takes 30 minutes, while the mutton needs around an hour. The wait is worth it.
While you wait for the dish to arrive, a delicious warm broth is served, perfectly seasoned with mild spices, and a few pieces of chopped onion that add a soft crunch.
We tried the chicken Madhooth, and it was quite different from other Arabic dishes. The meat was soft enough to fall off the bone, while the long-grain rice was a sensation. Made with tomato, onion, green chillies, zaatar and other Arabic spices, the dish is rich without being too spicy. Each type of meat has its own spice mix, so every Madhooth has a different look and taste.
Madhooth is a wholesome dish, one meant to be enjoyed in a group. And the restaurant sticks to that philosophy. One Madhooth easily serves four people. The chef also recommends having this Persian goodness at the restaurant rather than ordering it at home. “Madhooth is best enjoyed hot and steaming, just as it comes out of the cooker,” smiles Azeez.
There may be a wait during busy hours, but the staff take orders while customers are in the queue, so the food is ready soon after they are seated.
Apart from the Madhooth, the Qum Qum Special Alfaham is another must-try. Mildly sweet with barbecue flavour, complemented by the tender meat, this Alfaham is a favourite among children.
The freshly made silk grape juice is refreshing, while the Milo shake, served in an earthen cup, is creamy without being overly sweet. During the meal, a complimentary cup of kahwa is served in the traditional Arabian way. For the perfect ending, try the pistachio kunafa, which is rich, creamy and perfectly sweet.
The menu at Qum Qum is small and changes from time to time. There are also other Arabic dishes that are available, such as classic mandis and shawaya, but one thing is certain — the Madhooth is here to stay.