Against the dramatic backdrop of the Himalayan foothills in Himachal Pradesh lies Dharamsala; an unlikely combination of a bustling Indian town, peaceful Tibetan refugee abode and vibrant backpacker resort, resulting in a harmonious melting pot of peoples and cultures with a truly unique atmosphere.
McLeod Ganj, Dharamsala’s Tibetan area also commonly known as Little Lhasa, is home to the Dalai Lama, who has inspired millions of people with his genuine belief in a positive future for a free Tibet. These days, we get to hear of the Buddhist spiritual leader hinting at giving up his nearly six-decade-old struggle against China, but only last month we saw His Holiness continuing his speaking tour. That was until he was admitted to hospital for removal of gallstones. He soon recovered, and the news was reported and celebrated the world over. It is exactly this kind of perseverance and strength in the face of adversity, so characteristic of the Dalai Lama, that permeates Dharamsala, and leaves visitors to the town profoundly moved.
Driving into McLeod Ganj, one is initially unaware of the full impact that Tibet has within the town; it is only once out of the car one can appreciate the real essence of Tibetan culture in the city. The streets pulsate with activity; from buzzing Tibetan cafes frequented by tourists and residents alike to market stalls selling traditional Tibetan handicrafts. Posters advertising activities for tourists offer courses in Tibetan cookery, reiki and Tibetan language. Every shop displays postcards, posters and T-shirts for sale, proudly displaying famous poems of the Dalai Lama. And they include‚ ‘Never Give Up’. Besides, you have key rings, pins and posters emblazoned with the slogan, ‘Free Tibet.’ They stir up in you images of Tibetan tragedies that began in the 1950s and continue to occur today. Surely, Tibetan culture is alive and well preserved in this north Indian small town, but the effort can last long only if the rights of its people are restored back in their homeland. It is this unfaltering hope amid a cynical world that captures the attention of thousands of Indian and Western tourists who flock to the small town every year. Tourists can even take part in a range of volunteering opportunities in aid of the Tibetan cause — like fundraising, reporting news and teaching.
The ideal first port of call for visitors to the town is the Dalai Lama temple complex, which also houses the unique and extremely moving Tibet Museum. The main exhibition in the museum, entitled‚ ‘A Long Look Homeward’, was curated by 11 Tibetan refugees, each telling his or her story about the troubles in Tibet and how one have overcome them. The ground floor of the building tells of the travails that Tibetans faced and are facing since the Chinese takeover in Tibet, while the next level shows their hope and positivity for the future. On moving upstairs, such morbid feelings are soon replaced with ones of happiness and curiosity. How can a community, pulled apart and disregarded, still have this hope and positivity for the future of its country? The exhibition closes with a final message of hope — a large book in which visitors to the exhibit are able to write comments about the museum and messages to the Tibetan people.
Looking through the book, hundreds of messages from worldwide visitors demonstrated the overwhelming public support for the Tibetan cause: “All the best Tibet” and “Our hopes and best wishes are with the people of Tibet”.
Having gained a deeper understanding and appreciation of the Tibetan’s plight at the museum, visitors can now explore the Norbulingka Institute of Tibetan Culture, which was founded by the Dalai Lama in a bid to preserve and promote Tibetan art and culture in exile. Beyond the dusty roads, the putrid cowpats and the busy streets of the town, lies the sanctuary that is Norbulingka, where one is welcomed into lush greenery, beautiful flowers and wonderful water features. Straight through the Japanese style gardens lies Deden Tsuglagkhang temple, a large stone structure, headed by a 14-foot statue of Buddha, handmade from copper by the talented Tibetan artists in the Norbuligka Sculpture Studio. Next door is home to an exhibition featuring a multitude of miniature dolls, each one dressed in a colourful costume and every scene telling the viewer an unknown story about the people of Tibet through the ages.
The Norbulingka Institute is unique in providing training, employment and care for the many Tibetan refugees that can be seen working in the studios. The narrow pathways throughout Norbulingka lead to a variety of these studios, each one holding the sacred and traditional arts of Tibet inside. The specialist arts include Thangka painting, sculpture, Applique Thangka and woodwork, with each studio holding a master and his students. The master sculptor, Pemba Dorge, was born in 1930 in a southern region of Tibet and learned to sculpt from a young age. He escaped from Lhasa in 1959, and began training a team to help preserve the arts he learned as a child. Currently, he leads a team of two assistant masters and 15 students.
Finally, the Norling Shop. It is home to a number of unique works of art, created on site by the talented workers in the institute. While purchasing any item from the shop, the customer can feel assured in knowing that all purchases help preserve and contribute to the future of Tibet.
In a world that is all too often characterised by conflict, bitterness, revenge and pessimism, Dharamsala offers a glimmer of hope in the form of the peaceful determinism of its Tibetan inhabitants.