Fountain of the Organ 
Travel

The Art of the Detour

A small departure from Rome’s crowded piazzas to these three historic towns offers a rare chance to slow down the tourist pace and to experience the Renaissance at leisure

Prachi Joshi

It takes time to take in all of Rome’s Renaissance treasures. Step outside the city and the pace of life slows down. Fountains flow, gardens stretch out in perfect patterns, and frescoed palaces sit quietly in hill towns such as Tivoli, Caprarola, and Bagnaia which offer three beautiful ways to discover Renaissance Italy—here exploring is as rewarding as sightseeing.

Start from Tivoli, about 45 km east of Rome, at Villa d’Este. Its steep hillside is transformed into a spectacular garden filled with fountains and pools. Follow the sound of water along shaded paths, past the Hundred Fountains, the Fountain of Neptune and the grand Organ Fountain. The water flows naturally by gravity, creating a gentle soundtrack as you walk through the gardens.

There is something wonderfully disorienting about Villa d’Este: one moment you are looking across a grand Italian garden, the next you are turning a corner and discovering another fountain, grotto or cascade. The garden was always designed to impress. Find a shady bench, listen to the water and let the scale of the place slowly sink in.

Villa Lante

The journey north to Caprarola, about 70km from Rome, brings a change of mood. Palazzo Farnese rises above the hill town like a fortress, its imposing geometry giving way to lavish frescoes, grand staircases and theatrical interiors. The extraordinary Sala del Mappamondo, with painted maps of the known world, offers a glimpse of how the late Renaissance imagined distant lands.

Inside the palace, climb the sweeping Scala Regia, pause beneath painted ceilings and move from one richly decorated room to another. Look out over the surrounding countryside from the terraces and the story shifts again: the architecture was designed not only to be admired, but to command a landscape.

Just 20km away, Bagnaia offers perhaps the most intimate experience of the three. At Villa Lante, the garden is the star. Water begins its descent at the upper terraces, winding through channels, fountains and pools before reaching the perfectly clipped parterres below. At the celebrated Table Fountain, water runs along a long stone table once used to chill wine and fruit during outdoor banquets.

Scala Regia, Caprarola

The beauty of Villa Lante lies in its choreography. Walk slowly and the relationship between stone, water, greenery and symmetry keeps revealing itself: a fountain appears around a corner, a vista opens between hedges, two casino buildings frame the garden almost like stage sets.

Taken separately, each destination makes an easy escape from Rome; together, they form a wonderfully varied Renaissance trail. Tivoli is all movement and water, Caprarola is theatrical grandeur, and Bagnaia is measured elegance. Close enough for a day trip yet far enough from Rome’s crowds, they offer the rare chance to slow down and experience the Renaissance with leisure.

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