In Karnataka’s Malenadu (rain-fed) area which lies adjacent to the lush green Western Ghats are relatively microcosms of scenic beauty. The lesser-known of Karnataka’s troika of coffee-growing areas—the other two being Coorg and Chickmagalur—Sakleshpur is modest but packed with stunning vistas of greenery.
Driving in, Sakleshpur is quickly evident from the beautiful hills and valleys carpeted with coffee plantations. But what makes it worthwhile is going off the main road and wind through the countryside amdist thick, dark green plants on either side, forming a canopy of tall trees whose barks are full of pepper and vines. Small streams and waterfalls provide a counter-point to this beautiful backdrop.
The best way to taste Sakleshpur’s treasures is to stay in a coffee estate, enveloped in the rich aroma, especially when the flowers bloom. The plantations are a warren of narrow paths, flanked by masses of coffee plants. Since the plantations are typically set on hillsides, the paths usually wind their way up and down hilly terrain. For the more adventurous, there are plenty of trekking and nature routes, camping and other adventure activities. The area abounds in a variety of birds and is a birdwatcher’s haven.
For hardcore coffee lovers, it is also a good idea to time your visit for the harvest season when you can see the berries being picked, sorted and graded. Most estates also have basic processing facilities, and it is fascinating to watch coffee beans emerge from the pods. A few estates also offer coffee tasting sessions, and take visitors through the fine art of distinguishing between the main types of coffee and the various methods of brewing.
The breathtaking star-shaped Manjirabad Fort lies on a hillock just outside Sakleshpur. A set of 200 steps lead to its inside, which was built by Tipu Sultan in 1792 on top of Adanigudda at the edge of the plains and the hilly Malnad region. It stands at an altitude of 3,240 feet, proving a bird’s eye view for miles around. Legend has it that the area was masked in thick fog during its construction, and Tipu Sultan christened it Manjirabad (after the Kannada word ‘manju’, meaning fog).
Built of granite and mud, the fort is an architectural wonder, as it is neither carved nor of the usual quadrangular shape, but has eight angular limbs. At the exact geometric centre of the fort is a plus-shaped well. Just above it sit two cool and exceptionally strong rooms for preparing and storing gunpowder for use during war. Along the inner flanks of the fort are rooms that served as stables, barracks, guard quarters, food stores, etc.
Though the fort is in ruins, its outer walls and many inner rooms and structures are still standing. From its ramparts are visible the Western Ghats.