Retracing pandavas’ temple trail in exile

That which exists is One. Sages call it by various names. God is revered in many forms, and the legends related to Him are countless. So are the tales of these abodes of the destroyer of evil and transformer, Lord Shiva, in Shivalik foothills of Una district in Himachal Pradesh that date back to the Pandavas’ one year of agyatsvaas (exile in disguise).

Of the three holy sites where Pandavas are said to have worshipped is Dhyunsar Sadashiv Mandir. Residing on a hillock at 3,900 ft from sea level in Bahi area of Talmehra, the 5,500-year-old temple has a tiny ‘Swayam Bhupindi’ (emerging from the Earth) different from the normal Shivalingas. “It depicts the complete Shiva family,” says priest Siddharaash, who has been performing rituals here for the past 10 years. The temple edifice has just three walls, and the fourth is the hill itself on which the pindi resides.
 Locals believe that pouring one vessel of water on the linga is equivalent to offering water for a year and has an eternal return.

Narrating the history behind this belief, the priest says, “While roaming in the forest near Bhimchul village, the Pandavas were in search of a secret place to worship. Going to the village temple was not a wise option—as someone might recognise them—so they went ahead till they found Dhaumya Rishi, who later became their family priest. Together they worshipped Shiva. And answering their prayers, Lord Shiva and Parvati appeared there.”

Since then, it is believed, whosoever prays here with a pure heart and loyalty gets whatever is desired. On Shivratri this year, over 55,000 devotees had thronged the temple. This place was found by Swami Onkara Nand Giri, a Shiva bhakt, who left his job as sessions judge at Madras High Court in search of god in 1947, after he saw the temple in his dream. It took him 10 years to find the temple. “The first Shivratri celebrations were held in 1948,” says the priest.  One can enjoy the sight of the tiny district from the top of temple, and the tranquillity fills one with a sense of gratification.

The next temple in the trail is Banaude Mahadev. Passing through Chattara village, one reaches the holy shrine in the midst of sandy hills after a bumpy ride on an isolated road.  In front of the temple, adorning an orange flower-climber and several trees and plants, is a natural pond that remains filled with water throughout the year. This shrine has two lingas—the Ardhnaarishwar and the Shivalinga—that were made by the Pandavas during their stay.

Rampal, 50, a resident of Chattara village, who makes replicas of the two lingas for Shivratri fair every year, says, “Our forefathers have been seeing these lingas as they are. When the temple was being built, people from the archaeological department were called, who revealed that its walls were over 600 years old.”

Over 30,000 devotees paid obeisance this year. “A makeshift bridge is made over the pond to manage the crowd during Shivratri,” says temple priest Sharad Bhatt.  Snuggled in the monochromatically green surroundings, Someshwar Mahadev temple in Swamipur village has four Shivalingas.

It is said that the size—length and breadth—of the pindis changes every time you visit the temple. Balbir, 75, who lives nearby, says, “Set up by a Naga Sadhu, the temple is being taken care of by the residents of Mehatpur village, who have made a body for its functioning. The Shivalinga inside is the main pindi, and the rest were found during the excavation done before building the temple.”

The month of Shraavan and Mondays are when devotees visit the temple in large numbers. One can go to the Sutlej ghat, which is 10 minutes from here. Though we are taught since childhood that God is within us, visiting such holy places fill you with an altogether different energy.

Miracles of Dhyunsar Mahadev

Filling the shivalinga room with water has led to rain in drought-like situations several times. Maharishis used to fill the temple with water and as water would reach the pindi, it would start raining.

A pair of snakes stayed near the pindi for a night once, and people have even heard temple bells ringing on their own at night.

A woman from Mumbai prayed here for her husband who was ailing for a long time. Miraculously after a few days, her husband started to recover and was soon discharged from the hospital.