Rooted in ancient Zoroastrian and Persian mythology, The Divine Kingdom, the latest collection from Ashdeen Z Lilaowala’s atelier, celebrates heritage and craftsmanship through the art of Parsi gara embroidery. Inspired by the Zoroastrian creation myth of Mashya and Mashyana, the first man and woman on earth, the collection brings the animal, bird, and aquatic kingdoms to life through intricate needlework.
The Shikargah sari, with its elaborate wildlife motifs, draws on royal textile traditions associated with power, prosperity, and strength. “The garments are rich but not in the usual heavily gilded way. We’ve also introduced newer silhouettes like corsets,” says Lilaowala, founder and creative director, Ashdeen. Moving the focus from flora to fauna, the collection places animals and birds centre stage, drawing on their auspicious symbolism in Parsi gara tradition. “The animal, bird, plant and aquatic worlds are timeless guardians of creation and we’re honouring them with this collection,” says Lilaowala.
The Parsi gara itself reflects Persian, Chinese, Indian, and European influences. The atelier continues this legacy by bringing traditional textiles such as Kanjivaram, Bandhani, and Banarasi. “As contemporary revivalists and guardians of this tradition, we have and continue to bring different textile traditions into conversation with the Parsi gara. As textile designers, we do so mindfully and respectfully,” he says. Known as painting with needles, gara embroidery is celebrated for its lifelike depictions of nature. “Our karigars are constantly skilling themselves to render these forms flawlessly with a sense of movement and aliveness,” adds Lilaowala. Corsets, cocktail dresses, trousers, and contemporary jackets bring a modern sensibility to the collection, making the centuries-old craft accessible to younger audiences.
Ultimately, The Divine Kingdom bridges mythology and modernity, positioning Parsi gara as a living tradition rather than a relic of the past. Through its intricate storytelling and contemporary silhouettes, the collection honours the craft’s rich cultural lineage while opening it up to a new generation of collectors.