Andhra Pradesh

Traditional Kalamkari gets GI registration

The centuries-old Kalamkari prints of Pedana received Geographical Indication registration, after Pochampalli sarees.

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VIJAYAWADA: The centuries-old Kalamkari prints of Pedana in Krishna district received Geographical Indication Registration –– a sort of patent right –– recently on the lines of Pochampalli sarees. The National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hyderabad, forwarded them to get this region- specific patent.

The Kalamkari prints are popular not just here in the State but also abroad as artisans use traditional natural and vegetable dyes. One can find 17th century Kalamkari prints at the Salarjung Museum in Hyderabad.

Over three thousand families are continuing this ancient art in Pedana near Machilipatnam.

Despite the steep hike in the cost of raw materials, this cottage industry is an exception in that it is flourishing against all odds with little help from the State Government.

The artisans use herbals, leaves, indigo blue and chebulic myroba (called karakkaya in Telugu) in the prints. Once the master designer finalises the design, it is carved by an expert blockmaker Gangadhar. The Kalamkari artists make first print on the Kora cloth brought from Tirupur in Tamil Nadu.

After the first print, the cloth is boiled in hot water so that the colours are absorbed by the cloth. After drying, the second print is embossed on the cloth to make it attractive.

Speaking to Express, Kalamkari artisans’ association president P Bhimalingam said, ‘‘the Kalamkari prints are in great demand in foreign countries like the US, Germany, Netherlands and in our own country in Mumbai, Delhi, Ahmedabad and other northern cities.’’ He demanded that the government supply raw materials at subsidised rates and establish a cloth producing unit in Pedana itself.

Assistant Director of the office of development commissioner (handicrafts) IHP Rao said, ‘‘the department has been providing identity cards to artisans and helping them as well.’’ The artisans are going to exhibit Kalamkari prints at the International Trade Fair to be held at Frankfurt in Germany in February, 2009.

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