Recent discussions over actor-model Shefali Jariwala’s untimely death have drawn attention to what seems to be a frenzied pursuit of the ‘glow’.
With reports noting that some anti-ageing medication might have played a villain, there has been a renewed focus on the larger subject of India’s ‘beauty craze’.
Kerala too is not insulated. For instance, the number of cosmetics centres has reportedly boomed from about 12,000 to over 30,000 in the past decade.
It’s high time that side effects of serums, creams, tablets, gummies, and shots — all promising the ethereal glow — were discussed widely. The ‘glow’ we are talking about isn’t a niche subject anymore.
What was once abstract and internal — linked to vitality and happiness — is now an aesthetic benchmark, achieved with external aids and intensive routines. The definition of ‘internal’ itself has shifted.
Take the case of Ardra S, a teenager. She follows a meticulous skin and hair care regimen. Her arsenal includes cleansers, serums, creams, oils, masks, and nutricosmetic supplements.
"The products I use are all sourced from nature — snail slime, sea salt, ashwagandha, salmon sperms, triphala, Himalayan weeds, and herbs like ginseng, mugwort, and liquorice — referenced in ancient Ayurveda or Korean Hanbang medicine,” she proclaims.
And her source of this information? “You just need to research on social media,” she adds. She means Instagram reels, YouTube shorts, and beauty influencers who flood the platforms with product demos and ‘personal’ discount codes.
This so-called beauty influencer market is huge, says market researcher G Abhilash. “The beauty and personal care market in India is expected to hit `2.95 lakh crore by 2028, with influencer marketing alone projected to reach `3,375 crore,” he notes.
The ‘glow’ obsession surged post-pandemic, when terms like collagen, hyaluronic acid, glutathione, and ‘Korean glass skin’ became part of everyday vocabulary. The K-pop wave and Korean beauty icons had already planted seeds in pre-teen minds.
With social media amplifying flawless aesthetics, many became self-declared skincare experts. Anti-ageing creams, injectables like Botox and HA fillers, laser treatments, and daily gummies were adopted without medical guidance.
Today, the desire to look flawless is driven not just by personal aspiration but by peer pressure and social expectations. Ros Elizabeth, a college student, links it to her self-esteem. “Doing my skincare routine keeps my confidence level up,” she says.
While there is absolutely nothing wrong in aspiring to enhance one’s physical appearance, experts caution against misleading advertising, poor product knowledge, and unrealistic beauty standards.
“The idea of personalised care is being overlooked, as is the understanding that what suits one may not suit another,” says Dr Soumya Jagadeesan, dermatologist at Amrita Hospital, Kochi. She attributes the herd mentality to the Dunning-Kruger effect.
“People believe they know more than they do. A 30-second video cannot address complex issues of skin, hair, and body, yet influencers are followed blindly,” she says.
She also highlights the trend of skincare being portrayed as a necessity rather than a choice. “Even teenagers with perfectly healthy skin are using up to eight products daily. Is this really necessary? Are these routines driven by real needs or just fads?” she wonders.
Dr Soumya warns that improper use of over-the-counter products and glow-up pills can cause serious health problems, including kidney damage. “We have had several cases of formication — a sensation of ants crawling on the skin — triggered by excessive use of beauty products,” she adds.
Personal care should be an act of self-love, underscores Dr Rajeev Jayadevan, former president of IMA (Kochi chapter). “Skin tone has nothing to do with beauty. The pressure to lighten or change one’s complexion reflects a deeply problematic mindset,” he observes.
“As the beauty and nutrition industries converge, nutricosmetics, which combines skincare and ingestibles, is booming.”
Notably, a study by Future Market Insights projects skincare will lead the nutricosmetics sector this year, with a 34.81% share. Meanwhile, Statista forecasts India’s beauty and personal care market to cross $33.08 billion in this year.
To appeal to ‘natural’ sensibilities, brands now include ingredients like sandalwood, turmeric, neem, snail mucin, and seaweed in their formulas. Regional influencers play a major role in building consumer trust.
“Many don’t know the risks and jump on the bandwagon without proper knowledge,” says Dr Divya Sidhavaram, a senior dermatologist.
“While choosing cosmetic treatments is personal, it must be an informed decision. Understanding the risks and benefits is crucial.”
Rajiv Ambat, a lifestyle coach and CEO of NuvoVivo, highlights that factors such as poor nutrition, sleep deprivation and stress needs to be addressed first, rather than going for “patchwork”. “These can speed up ageing. Unhealthy habits like heavy drinking and smoking also cause a lot of damage,” he points out.
Talking of the booming anti-ageing industry, he says numerous pills, injections, and cosmetic procedures are being offered. “True anti-ageing starts within. Regular exercise, antioxidant-rich diets, and 7 to 8 hours of sleep can work wonders. Moreover, it’s critical to consult a qualified specialist before trying any new-gen pills or procedures,” he adds.
Nasreen M A, a behavioural therapist, notes that personal care routines can also be a
form of self-love and a way to relieve stress when done mindfully. “But when it turns into an obsession, we have a problem. Professional consultation is essential before starting any intense routine,” she says.
“Some of my clients have told me that they struggle with a lack of confidence because of their appearance or skin tone. For many, following a skincare routine is not just about maintaining their looks, but a way to boost their self-esteem. This becomes problematic when one feels pressured to keep up with trends.”
Psychologist and former school teacher Sujatha Rajeev terms this “perfection pressure” worrisome. “As the beauty industry expands, there should be an emphasis on responsibility, not just from brands, but from influencers and consumers alike,” she says.
“Beauty should be empowering, not pressuring. It should be safe, informed, and unique to each individual. Glow from within — that’s what really matters.”
With inputs by Darshita Jain