Azhimala used to be a mellowed, tranquil spot. A quiet coastal stretch visited by a handful of tourists seeking solitude by the sea or at the small temple nearby. All that changed in January 2021, when a 58-feet-tall majestic sculpture of Lord Shiva rose dramatically above the rocks, overlooking the Arabian Sea.
With wind-swept locks resembling cascading waves and the playful stride of the Ganga locked in them, the colossal figure of Gangadhara Shiva, set against the vast seascape, presented an awe-inspiring expanse — an image that seemed to merge with infinity.
The transformation was immediate. Azhimala turned into a tourist magnet. Social media amplified its allure, with vloggers and dancers posting reels alongside the statue. Travel websites and magazines soon listed it as a must-see in Thiruvananthapuram.
Now, the beach is on the cusp of another popularity surge with the opening of a cave ‘temple’ beneath the statue. Unveiled by Governor Rajendra Arlekar on Monday, this subterranean world unfolds into three tiers of art and mythology, steeped in a unique spiritual energy.
The entrance, a winding passage, evokes mystery as visitors stoop to enter the first enclosure, a concrete structure adorned with sculptures of Ardhanareeshwara, Shiva reclining in bliss after drinking the Halahala poison, his coterie with worry etched on their faces, a rotund Ganapati lending his charm, and Karthikeya poised with his peacock.
What truly stands out are the sculptures of Shiva and Parvati in the nude, surrounded by an array of naked women. “This is Purusha and Prakriti and their bare forms. The women are all Prakritis, forms of Shakthi, its bare, unique power,” explains Rahul Azhimala, the project coordinator.
“This shows spirituality is not about denying nature, but accepting it in its pristineness. The entire series shows the divinity in raw Prakriti, the female energy that sets the universe in motion.”
The second enclosure, Rahul adds, is a naturally formed ancient cave, probably once used for meditation. “It was Sri Narayana Guru who spotted Azhimala for its spiritual significance, and even gave it its name, which means hill or rock formations by the sea,” he notes.
Notably, a life-size sculpture of Narayana Guru is housed in the third enclosure, fashioned from rock and concrete, like the first.
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The final tier ventures into the philosophical realm. “The sculpture of Kali, in her bare form, is unlike what she is generally portrayed as,” says Abhi Krishnajith, one of 12 resource persons who guide visitors through the site.
“Here, she is without frills, where her fierce form is seen slaying human transgressions and malices, so as to make way for the soul to soar to its own freedom. The figure of Shiva, lifting one foot up in a Tandava pose, also represents the confluence of energies required for universal balance.”
Currently, work on a meditation hall overlooking the sea is progressing. “It is the third and final phase of the project, which began in February 2014 with the Gangadhara Shiva sculpture,” says Abhi, pointing to sculptures depicting Arjuna’s penance and Shiva and Parvati in kirata vesha (tribal attire).
“The entire work was planned, supervised, and executed by Devadethan P S, a Fine Arts College alumnus from the area, who was just 22 when he began working on the project. He and his team worked for about 11 years after studying the rock and its endurance. The local community also pitched in, helping with rock cuts and figurine work.”
Devadethan, who is currently working on a national project in Chhattisgarh, believes spirituality is embedded in Azhimala, so it just had to be stylised into the art idea and medium.
“References were taken from various cave structures and archaeological sites across India over the eras, resulting in a mixed approach,” he says.
Chandralekha K, president of Kottukal panchayat under which Azhimala falls, says the entire project coordinated by the temple trust and local community has firmly placed the destination on the tourism map. “With the cave enclosures opened, we expect its popularity to surge further,” she smiles.
After all, the surreal charm of the sculptures, blending seamlessly with the serenity of the sea, is irresistible.
(Swipe to see the visuals)