Pujo were first established and performed by several heritage families of Kolkata, a tradition and legacy that is kept alive even today. Arriving in the city during Pujo feels like stepping into a world of vibrant tradition and artistic grandeur. The destination transforms into a sprawling gallery of intricate pandals, each a masterpiece reflecting the deep-rooted heritage of Bengal. Embarking on a journey of pandal hopping, particularly to some of Kolkata’s oldest and most revered pujas, offers a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in the rich cultural tapestry of the city, where every corner pulses with festive energy, history and devotion.
Baishnab Das Mullick Bari, Malapara
This 239-year-old Pujo sees the family welcoming the goddess as their daughter in her embodiment as shanti rupen. The Shibo-Durga idol is accompanied by Lakshmi, Saraswati and two companions, Jaya and Bijaya. The chaalchitra, a traditional backdrop, illustrates mythological scenes hand-drawn by family members. Founded by Baishnab Das Mullick, the Pujo features the unique ritual of dhuno porano, performed by the eldest female member and married women. Additionally, a dry bhog is offered throughout the celebrations.
Sabarna Roy Choudhury Durga Puja, Behala
The foundation of the Barisha Durga Puja was laid in 1610 CE by Ray Laksmikanta Gangopadhyay Majumdar Choudhury and Bhagabati Debi, marking the first instance of worshipping goddess Durga alongside Lakshmi, Saraswati, Ganesha and Kartikeya within the same chaalchitra, a tradition that later became widespread. As the family expanded, eight additional Pujos were established. The rituals are meticulously followed according to Bidyapati’s Durgabhaktitarangini. A distinctive offering, known as mashabhaktaboli, is made on mahashtami and mahanavami to honour the presiding powers of trilok. Uniquely, this is the only Hindu family where the Tri-dhara Sangam — Shakta, Shaiva and Vaishnava traditions — are practised in unison.
Motilal Seal Thakurbari, Colootola
Initiated around 1828, this puja was established to provide the common people with an opportunity to visit and pray to the goddess, as other Pujos were traditionally reserved for the upper classes and required special invitations. Today, the Pujo is managed by the Mullick family, descendants of Motilal Seal’s grandson’s nephews, as he passed away without an heir. The goddess is offered home-cooked dry bhog, five varieties of homemade sweets and an assortment of fruits. Furthermore, approximately 40 kilos of rice and other items are presented as naivedya. The prasad is served exclusively on banana leaves and traditional clay plates known as shora.
Chatu Babu Latu Babu Bari, Beadon Street
Over 250 years old, this Pujo is now overseen by the eighth generation of the same family, who also continue the tradition of crafting the idols, a practise passed down through generations. Uniquely, goddess Durga is accompanied by Jaya and Bijaya, rather than Lakshmi and Saraswati. The Pujo is open to all and each morning, after offering the dry luchi-bonde bhog to the goddess, prasad is generously distributed to everyone in attendance.
Sovabazar Rajbari, Sovabazar
Raja Nabakrishna Deb, a close associate of Robert Clive, started this Pujo immediately after the Battle of Plassey in 1757. True to tradition, the lion on which the goddess is seated resembles a horse and she is adorned in the iconic ‘daaker saaj.’ While the ornaments were traditionally silver in hue, in the past 5-6 years they have been replaced with gold. Unlike most Pujos where married women perform the rituals, here it is the men of the family who take on this role. Remarkably, this remains the only Pujo permitted to conduct the immersion ceremony by boat.
Girish Bhawan, Bhowanipore
Founded by Hara Chandra Mukherjee, this puja is set to celebrate its 194th year. It features a family of dhulis who travel from a village near Diamond Harbour, while the idol was originally crafted by a maker and his sons. Recently, one of his students has taken on the responsibility of creating the idol. On dashami, the men join the women in performing a prodokkhin around the goddess, chanting the durga stotram. Their visarjan is truly distinctive, being one of the very few in Kolkata that occurs at home. In the post-COVID-19 era, a metal frame with wheels and brakes has been designed for immesion.