While travelling on National Highway 209 on way to Chamarajanagar, about 160 kilometres from Bangalore, I came across an architectural marvel in the heart of the Yalandur town. The first thing that caught my attention was the mahadwara(main doorway) which had huge chain of rings carved from rocks hanging from the four corners with the doors engraved by exquisite carved figurines. Curiosity got better of me and I explored further to find out that it was the Gaurishwara temple.
A protected monument, this temple was built by Singadeva and Devaraja, Chieftains of Hadinadu in 1500 AD while the Mantapa was built in 1654 AD by another Chieftain Muddaraju of Hadinadu.
The temple has some unique features which makes it very distinctive. Although there is no towering gopura (as it is common in South Indian temples), the east facing majestic mahadwara or gateway comes into view just as you approach the temple. This rectangular shaped gateway is popularly known as 'Bale (bangle) mantapa' as monolithic stone chains (stone carved rings - 20 cm each) adorn the four corners and the entrance doors. The doorway is simply magnificent and is a rare testimony to the abilities of the builders.
The outer walls as well as the four pillars of the Balemantapa are richly ornamented with exquisite carvings of mythological thematic stories, illustrating episodes from the Ramayana, the Mahabharata, and the Shaivapurana. There are sculptures denoting stories of Shiva on the right side and Vishu on the left of the doorway. There are sculptures of Andhakasura (slaying of demon Andhakasura), Narasimha (half man - half lion god), Shoolabrahma, Bhikshatanamurthy, various manifestationsof Dakshinamurthy and Sharaba, Bhairava, Kalingamardhana Krishna and images of contemporary rulers.
The engravings on four pillars depict the war between Vaali and Sugreeva. The image of Mudduraja has been carved on the outer wall. The ceiling has a fine image of Ashta Lakshmi with a lotus in its centre, surrounded by the dikpalas in the respective directions.
The Gourishwara temple consists of a garbhagriha, an ardhamantapa and a large frontal mantapa. An important feature of the temple is its garbhagriha and ardhamantapa which is 6 feet below ground level at the basement and can be reached by stairs. While the garbhagriha is adorned with the linga(Gaurishwara), idols of Vishnu, Parvathi, Mahishamardini, Kalabhairava, Durgi, Ganapathi are installed in the ardhamantapa.
Another unique feature is the presence of Suryadeva in front of the temple instead of the Garuda. An inscription and the scorpion insignia of the Chola kings found on the wall of the temple indicates that the temple was built during the Chola period.
Historical records say that Yalandur came into prominence under the Cholas. The first known prince of the dynasty, Singadeva seems to have ruled this region, known as Hadinadu province. This remarkable temple complex speaks volumes for Cholas as builders.
Behind the Gourishwara temple are a row of five shrines with a common roof, housing Panchalingas(five lingas) namely Ekam-bara, Jambunatha, Arun achala, Kalahasti and Chidambareshwar, installed by Muddaraja while constructing the Balem antapa. To the left of the Gou rishwara temple is the Par vathambe shrine, whose garbhagriha is also located below the ground level.
Historically known as 'Hadinadu,' in some 10th century archaeological records, Yalandur again became prominent under the rule of the Vijayanagara Empire in the 15th and 16th centuries. When it came under the rule of Wodeyars of Mysore, in the early 18th century, Dewan Poorniah, was gifted the land of Yalandur and its surrounding villages by Krishnaraja Wodeyar III - the King of Mysore, in appreciation of the great service rendered to the Mysore State by him.
“After the Chola period, it was only during the time of Poorniah that this temple received great patronage” said Nagachandramouli, the sixth generation of heredity priest of the temple. He also explained that unmarried young women bring a saree to be blessed by Parvathambe and later wear it. If one visits the Panchalingas in Yalandur, Talakadu temple and the 21 lingas in T Narsipura, they are far more blessed than if they visit Kashi. Blessings are not, this architectural wonder is most definitely a must visit.