BENGALURU: Every state of India prides itself on having its own biryani recipe. Here, we explore the types of biryani from the southern states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. According to the author of a famous cookbook, biryani is biryani only if it is Hyderabadi, and all others without the actual Hyderabadi flavour are pulao. The truth is, almost everyone considers their specialty the best.
Biryani found its way to Hyderabad during the reign of the fourth Nizam and gained popularity during the sixth Nizam’s period. While the outcome of biryani depends on the cooking process, the proportion of spices, meat, and rice, and the order of adding them has a major influence too. Around 300 gm of ghee for every kg of rice along with shahjeera, saffron, spices, yogurt, fried onions, and meat are used; this biryani is served with raita and mirchi ka salan.
The Hyderabadi biryani is also known as a Kachi Kham Biryani where the raw meat is marinated for hours with curd, fried onion, and spices and then layered with partially cooked rice. It is garnished with fried onion and mint and then sealed and cooked. Marinating the meat with a tenderiser like curd and onion makes them soft and succulent. Kachi Biryani literally means that the meat is raw and cooked along with rice. Another variety of Hyderabadi biryani is the Pakhi/Akhni biryani where the meat is cooked separately and layered with basmati rice.
Recently, a special type of biryani called Rumi/Sufiyani biryani is served in Hyderabadi weddings. This biryani has an achromatic appearance, hence the name. It is whitish due to the addition of milk and khoa, and they don’t add spices that can give colour to the dish.
Another type of biryani popular in old Hyderabad is the Kalyani biryani, which can be called a poorer cousin of the Hyderabadi biryani as it is made with beef instead of mutton. Hence, it is cheaper. Qubooli/Channa ki biryani is a popular vegetarian version found especially during Muharram and is made with channa hence it is protein rich too.
Though biryani of the Telugu states is synonymous with Hyderabad, there are others that are authentic like the Ulavucharu biryani, Rayalseema biryani, Gongura biryani, Kona seema biryani and Bheemavaram biryani. Ulavucharu biryani needs a special mention as here, the rice is cooked in horsegram broth giving it a nutty flavour and then layered with spices and meat, making it a harmonious marriage. The Adivasis of Araku valley have a special type of biryani where they cook the rice, meat, and spices within a bamboo trunk which adds to the flavour profile. So the next time you are in the Telugu-speaking regions, try the authentic varieties too.
Karnataka is also home to many types of biryani ranging from the most famous Donne biryani to the lesser-known Bhatkali biryani, Mangaluru biryani, Mandya biryani, and the Belagavi biryani.
Among these, the Bangalore Donne biryani is the most popular style made with small grain rice and a green paste. The addition of methi leaves imparts a distinctive flavour. This biryani is usually served in a donne, which is a bowl made of areca palm leaf, hence the name. The Hoskote biryani is a close cousin of the donne biryani in terms of taste but milder and hence, people have it even for breakfast.
The Vokkaliga households mostly make a variety called Mandya biryani or mamsa pulao, and you get a milder form of this in the Mysuru area. Another special variant is the Bhatkali biryani originating from the Nawayati Muslim community of the coastal Karnataka town of Bhatkal. This variety uses fried onion and is made with long-grain rice, unlike the other types in Karnataka. The liberal use of onion which is slow-cooked along with the tomato gives it a korma consistency to which meat is added and then topped with rice.
The Mangaluru or beary biryani has heavy influences from the Middle East and Kerala. Instead of a red masala, a green spice paste made with coriander, mint, and chilli is used. Biryani for us Indians goes beyond being just a nutritious one-pot meal. It is a dish that unites us all from the mountains to the coast. Our biryani quest will continue...
Bangalore Donne Biryani
Ingredients
Chicken: 350 g
Jeeraga samba rice: 350 g
Onion: 1.5
Tomato: 1
Oil: 50-75 ml
Turmeric: 1/2 tsp
For spice powder
Coriander seeds: 2 tbsp
Red chilli: 5
Jeera: 1 tsp
Pepper: 1 tsp
Fennel seeds: 1 tsp
Cinnamon: 4
Cloves: 8
Cardamom: 5
Star anise: 1.5
Nutmeg: a pinch
Mace: 1
Stone flower: 3
Bay leaf: 3
For masala paste
Ginger: 2 inch
Garlic: 12, Green chilli: 4
Coriander leaves and mint: 1/2 of a small bunch each
Methi leaves: 3 tbsp
METHOD
Dry roast all the spices on medium flame till they are aromatic, cool, and powder. Roast the ingredients for masala paste in a tablespoon of oil, and grind.
Soak the rice after washing it for 30 minutes.
Heat oil, add chopped onions, and sauté till they change colour. Add the masala paste and sauté. Follow it up by adding chicken 3/4-1 tablespoon of the spice mix, and salt, and cook for 10 minutes.
Add the rice and boiling water(×1.5), mix well, close the lid, place the whistle, and cook on medium to low flame for 9 minutes. Switch off the flame but open the cooker only after 20 minutes. Carefully fluff up from the sides before serving.