Known for his love for Indian motifs and a breath of fresh air in the way he deals with traditional Indian silhouettes, couturier Aseem Kapoor has now become a household name when it comes to ethnic-inspired fashion. Kapoor’s eponymous label is also popular with several celebrities including Bipasha Basu, Vidya Balan, Taapsee Pannu, Kubbra Sait, Shilpa Shetty, and Mithila Palkar. In fact, an ensemble from his collection was recently opted by actor Hansika Motwani at her mehendi ceremony.
The designer—a National Institute of Fashion Technology graduate who was design head at Tarun Tahiliani for 15 years—has now launched his latest edit titled Ambi. “Ambi—a tattered nostalgia is the new collection that we showcased at the last Lakmé Fashion Week in September. The collection is very close to my heart because it is inspired by something I came across as a child. I still remember this piece of tapestry that was rotting and torn, weathered by time. It was tattered in a very interesting way, at least for me as a child. That deconstruction—at least I grew up to realise—was what had wowed me and inspired this edit,” begins the designer, who launched this label with his wife Pooja Haldar in October 2020.
“We first began working with the prints and we worked with everything and anything related to Ambi, more popularly known as Jamevaar or Paisley. We wanted to go a little dressier this time, because we wanted it to also work for the festive season. So, we introduced Byzantium-inspired stone work in small coloured stones, with traditional marodi or gold thread work,” adds Aseem, who is known for his aesthetic that is rooted in simplicity.
Expect deeper jewel tones in blues and reds and lots of black and white in jamevaar and dabu prints that are ideal for the winter and wedding season. The collection comprises jackets, blazer jackets, dupatta jackets, kaftan tunics, regular tunics and trousers in crêpes, organzas, mushroom tulles, satins, and linens in a range of hand-painted and digitally printed pieces. “We have focussed on fun, easier silhouettes that are complimentary for bigger women. We wanted to focus on the Indian figure and accentuate curves—so we go very close on the shoulder and we go out towards the stomach and hips, ensuring a slimming look, which makes anyone feel confident,” he explains.
This collection will go forward into SS ’23, as the label would love to present the ambi or paisley motif in brighter, lighter, and fresher colours—think saffron, rusts, yellows, ivories, and greens.