HYDERABAD: When I was in Wadi Rum in Jordan, I ate this traditionally Bedouin dish called ‘Zarb’, that is cooked in an oven that is dug into the ground. The three tiered tray holds meats, rice and vegetables. As the meat cooks underground, the juices from it drop into the rice as it is cooking, making for a very rich and delicious meal. But what was most exciting was the suspenseful drama that preceded the cooking!
On a hot afternoon we reached the tents of ‘Captain’s’, to be warmly welcomed with the smells of cooking in progress. Bedouin hospitality is noted for its size and warmth, matching both the vastness of the desert and the heat! I saw a Bedouin making shrak, swirling in the air, dropping them onto the hot pot, another skewing meats dripping with juices while a large spread of ‘mezze’ was getting finishing touches. Strains of Arabian music from the other end of the long tent wafted in waves: a blind musician was playing the Oud and a young man on percussion called the tabla. I reflected in the brilliance of this welcome as Salah my guide, announced that I was in for a surprise. Mohammad and Rafaat came forward and led me to the outer courtyard. With spades in hand, they started digging dramatically, astonishing me further. For some time I thought it was some treasure they were going to unearth.Then a sheet of aluminium foil revealed itself, leading to some more, as they carefully, very carefully unfolded the aluminium foils, layer after layer. With bated breath I watched, expecting to see any time, a pot of gold gathered in layers of dust. But no, the final layer disclosed a three tiered tray, holding meats, vegetables and the rice dish underneath. Cautiously they lifted up the booty and carried it inside complacently, to my gushing and the smug smiles of Salah, who was feeling elated that they could spring so big a surprise!
The succulent meats just melted on my tongue, oozing the most delicious juices.
Rice that is done to perfection and garnished with nuts, any day beats the best of our biryanis. The aubergine that I often ignore and the golden potato vied for my attention on the crowded plate. As the music picked up tempo, Captain’s staff joined in dance. Over multiple helpings, (which no one can normally help) Rafiq Suliman explained how the Zarb is done.
First, the gashed meats are marinated with a ground paste of spices, garlic and hung curd for a couple of hours, before they go into the Zarb, where they sit for two to two and a half hours. The Zarb is like a Bedouin barbecue - a large pit is dug in the ground and a fire is made. On the blazing charcoal, the rice, meat and vegetables are placed in a three tired tray. Then, the whole area is covered with protective cloth or foil and sand is piled on top to be sure that no heat escapes. As the meat cooks underground, the juices from it drop into the rice, thus enriching it further.
After that sumptuous meal, I set out to see Wadi Rum, a stupendous, timeless place that is virtually untouched by humanity.
(The author is a documentary filmmaker and travel writer who blogs at www.vijayaprataptravelandbeyond.com)