HYDERABAD: It is as if all the fragrance families have gathered in jubiliation. The atmosphere after the early morning Salaat Al Eid prayer soaks the spirits with musky, woody, floral, fugere, citrus and aquatic aromas. On Eid Al Ad’ha or Bakri Eid which falls on August 1 this year, sumptuous delicacies and soul nourishing scents welcome the much-awaited spirit of togetherness and joy.
It is believed that the Prophet Muhammad taught, that fragrance is among the best gifts a human being can offer another. In his Hadith, there are many references to fragrance and its healing and spiritually - inspiring qualities. The Sufi mystics too, have considered scent to be a medium of spiritual connection. Every Eid, Hyderabad effervesces with the sillage of some of India’s finest attar oils worn by both men and women, a tradition that owes its association with the city to the passion of the Nizams.
Oud indispensable
‘Oud Al Hindi’ or Indian oud has been a part of Arab life since centuries. The legendary Dehn Al Oud oil distilled from the agarwood trees of Assam and other South Asian forests has been an indispensible part of Arabian perfumery while the wood has been burnt as incense for its deeply spiritual aromas.The Arabic tradition of wearing pure oud oil has also become a part of south Asian Muslim culture and oud’s deeply woody, leathery, sweet animalic scent casts a spell with its amazing sillage. Burning oud chips over charcoal on electric burners in mosques, during Iftaar, Eid prayers, or even homes creates a prayerful vibe.
Mukhallat magic
Standing out from the oceanic repertoire of attars is the Mukhallat, Arabic for ‘blended’. Although a blanket term, it specifically refers to a typical Arabesque blend with a specific formulation of notes. While icons like the famous fresh, green Jannatul Firdows, Majmua ( rose, kewda, oakmoss) and synthetic musks too, are a part of Eid celebrations, Mukhallat varieties, though reminiscent of the Gulf, are popular with all communities.
“Attar binds members of diverse faiths. While today, perfume oils spell versatility with a wide range that even includes western-style aqua and green notes, there is a huge market for Arabesque scents. Apart from my Muslim clientele purchasing them during Eid, I even have global aficionados lapping them up” shares senior perfumer Krishan Mohan Singh of the 200-plus years old Gulabsingh Johrimal attar tradition.According to him, Mukhallats can be identified by the typical saffron top note, patchouli, woody notes, rose, musk and oud.
Bakhoor brilliance
“We believe that bakhoor drives away the evil eye and dispels negativity. It is burnt not only in mosques and mausoleums but even in malls, boutiques and homes.” says Tunisian-Arab scholar Dr.Ben Haj Yedder. Bakhoor is one of India’s fastest-growing incenses. “Oud dust is soaked in heavy Arabic attars, dried and bound with special powders to make Bakhoor” explains Tajul Islam Bakshi, one of India’s foremost oud distillers.
Bakhoors come in fancy shapes and sizes and a combination of musk, saffron, sandalwood, labdanum makes the aromas exhilarating. Lighter ones with dominant florals spread calm.“Indian agarbattis with similar notes are excellent alternatives to bakhoor and equally powerful.