HYDERABAD: Who doesn’t love street food? Even seasoned food critic and writer Priya Bala, accustomed to fine dining, finds herself drawn to the irresistible aromas of samosas and crispy dosas from roadside stalls. Her fascination with India’s vibrant street food culture inspired her latest book, Bazaar Bites, co-authored with restaurateur Jayant Narayanan. In an engaging conversation with CE, Priya Bala speaks about her flavourful journey across the country, highlighting the people, places, and stories behind India’s iconic street food.
What sparked your interest in street food, and where did your journey take you?
This is my fourth book, and the third with Jayant Narayanan. While our previous book, Secret Sauce, delved into the success stories of iconic Indian restaurants like Hyderabad’s Paradise, we wanted to explore something closer to our hearts — street food. Both Jayant and I are passionate about local cuisine. With my roots in Madurai, known for its thriving street food scene, the idea naturally unfolded.
We traversed 40 cities across India, including Madurai, Hyderabad, Calicut, Amritsar, Srinagar, and even parts of the Northeast. Each city has unique street food treasures — from Hyderabad’s Nimra Café biscuits and Patthar Ka Gosht to Davangere’s butter dosa. We felt compelled to tell the untold stories of these vendors and artisans who have perfected their craft over generations.
Is the book about recipes or the culture surrounding them?
The book primarily explores the culture. It’s divided into city-specific chapters, spotlighting their iconic street foods. For instance, Hyderabad’s chapter features Shah Ghouse and the famous bandis. But it’s not just about the dishes — it’s about the people behind them.
These vendors are generational artisans. From sheermal makers in Hyderabad to the Tunde Kebab legacy, their dedication transcends mere cooking. We wanted to celebrate their passion, resilience, and the challenges they face, such as adapting to modernity and competing with corporate food chains.
How did you conduct your research?
We relied heavily on our connections across the country. Local guides and food enthusiasts were invaluable. For instance, in Pune, a colleague who leads food walks guided us, while in Ahmedabad and Surat, locals showed us the must-visit spots.
Online resources often fall short, recycling inaccurate information. Instead, we listened to the stories of vendors, which, though not always verifiable, offered authentic insights.
Has street food evolved, or does it remain true to its roots?
Street food evolves yet retains its essence — providing affordable meals to those who need them. From Rome to Hyderabad, it has always been about accessibility. However, commercialisation by corporations threatens its authenticity. Campaigns like ‘Street Food by Vendors’ are vital to preserve this cultural legacy.
What challenges did you face while writing this book?
The vastness of India! There’s so much more to explore, and the feeling of inadequacy lingers. The journey reinforced how much remains undiscovered.
Do you have advice for aspiring street food explorers?
The book includes maps marking iconic spots, serving as a great starting point. Be patient, non-judgmental, and appreciate the experience. The joy of street food lies in its authenticity, not perfection.
What about the hygiene concerns surrounding street food?
While street food might seem grimy, it’s often made with fresh, pure ingredients — most often, the same food vendors serve their families. Ultra-processed foods pose greater risks. From my experience, I never once fell ill during this journey.
Did you encounter any surprising food combinations?
Absolutely! In Odisha, I tried Dahi Bara Aloo Dum, a medu vada topped with hot aloo dum and a buttermilk-like dahi. Another standout was in Allahabad, where I had crispy jalebi paired with cold, creamy dahi. Unexpected yet delightful!