Nikolai Kennedy 
Hyderabad

From Kokum to Cacao: A Cocktail Takeover at Taj Deccan

Hyderabad’s cocktail culture got a bold twist as Nikolai Kennedy of Toronto’s Civil Liberties (#21 on North America’s 50 Best Bars) took over VISK Bar at Taj Deccan

Vennapusala Ramya

One might not have imagined Taj Deccan in this light — young, playful, alive with music, glowing lamps, and glasses clinking with inventive cocktails. A hotel long synonymous with fine stays and gourmet dining suddenly transformed into the city’s most stylish lounge. On this night, VISK Bar played host to a high-energy takeover by Nikolai Kennedy, Head Bartender at Toronto’s Civil Liberties (#21 on North America’s 50 Best Bars). In collaboration with All Things Nice, the evening promised more than just drinks; it was theatre in a glass, where reimagined classics and bold new pours captured the spirit of Hyderabad’s evolving cocktail culture.

Drawn into the vibe, we leaned closer to the crowd, scanning the menu with curiosity, eager to sip on the stories being shaken and stirred. The lineup spanned time-tested staples like A Very Wet Martini, Clover Club, Old Pal, and Toronto Cocktail, alongside modern, experimental creations such as London Calling, Teacher’s Lounge, Woolnough, and even a playful Jello Shot.

“The menu is drawn from two of our bars — Civil Liberties and Civil Works. Civil Liberties is our no-menu cocktail bar, where we often surprise guests with a classic they may not have tried before. For Hyderabad, we opened with the Clover Club, a classic gin sour from Pennsylvania. But since we’re in India, we wanted to nod to local culture, so we swapped raspberries for kokum. We also gave the Old Pal a twist by infusing it with cacao nibs. A Very Wet Martini came with a lime-leaf infusion and a pickled hog plum garnish, topped with gondhoraj lime zest because why import oranges when we can celebrate what’s already here?”, explained Nikolai.

Eighteen years behind the bar have given Nikolai a rare mix of discipline and play. From Civil Works — his more experimental space — came the runaway hit of the night: the Woolnough. “We actually ran out of it,” he admitted with a laugh. The drink blended Chivas Scotch with junum cordial, The Source (an Indian fortified white wine), dry vermouth, vetiver root, and sandalwood.

We tried the cacao-kissed Old Pal, a reimagined 1920s classic, and the Toronto Cocktail, built with Jameson Black Barrel, jaggery gomme, Fernet Branca, and bitters. Both were unapologetically bold. “My personal favourite will always be the Old Pal. My staff tease me for drinking too many of them. Old Fashioneds and Negronis get the spotlight, but the Old Pal is their forgotten cousin. Boozy, stiff, a little challenging — it’s not for everyone, but that’s what makes cocktails exciting,” Nikolai confessed.

The takeover wasn’t just about showcasing cocktails, it was about building a culture. “This initiative spans five bar takeovers across India — Delhi, Bengaluru, Goa, Hyderabad, and Mumbai,” said Anirban Kundu, Food & Beverage Manager, Taj Deccan, adding, “For Hyderabad, VISK is the only venue, and as a newly opened bar, we want it to be seen as more than a hotel lounge. We want it to be a cocktail destination. Independent bars have been leading the charge with strong concepts, but our aim is to create a space where younger crowds feel at home, where cocktail culture can grow. That’s why we invited Nikolai, his energy and vision align with ours. Since 8 pm, he’s already crafted nearly 200 cocktails, and this is just the beginning. More events are already in the pipeline.”

For Nikolai, cocktails are inseparable from culture. “In India, every 100 km the language, food, and ingredients change. If you don’t celebrate that diversity, you’re missing the best part of the country. My advice to young bartenders: don’t depend only on Blinkit. Look further, your best ingredients are right at your doorstep,” he said.

As glasses emptied and conversations faded, Nikolai smiled at the Hyderabad crowd. “Many weren’t regular cocktail drinkers, they came curious, maybe more used to beer or wine. That’s the fun part. It’s like serving biryani for the first time in Hyderabad. Locals know it’s the best, but when someone tastes it fresh, their eyes light up. That’s the feeling I saw tonight,” he concluded.

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