For urban diners accustomed to polished plating and globally inspired menus, Forest & Fire at Food Exchange, Novotel Hyderabad Convention Centre offers a rare glimpse into the rhythms of the forest. The dishes draw from ingredients that tribal communities have foraged and consumed for generations, cooked over open fires using age-old techniques. The food is simple yet deeply rooted in tradition. Experiencing these flavours in the heart of Hyderabad is both eye-opening and humbling, serving as a reminder that some of India’s richest culinary traditions have flourished far from restaurant kitchens.
Curated by chef and food researcher Harshita Kakwani, the limited-period festival ongoing till July 26, draws inspiration from the indigenous food traditions of Central India. Having spent over a decade living and working alongside indigenous communities in the forests of Pench and other parts of the region, Chef Harshita interacts with CE about her journey, the stories behind the dishes, and why some of India’s oldest food traditions may also hold the key to its future.
Elaborating on the festival, she says, “Forest & Fire is rooted in a cuisine that existed long before we even had the word ‘cuisine’. It takes us back to a time when people lived as hunters and gatherers, foraging what nature offered instead of cultivating crops. Over time, we’ve moved away from that way of life because convenience has taken over. But these indigenous food traditions are about much more than gastronomy — they’re connected to the environment, community, health and sustainability. Through this festival, I want people to rediscover the value of eating local, seasonal produce and respecting nature’s rhythm rather than consuming food purely to satisfy instant cravings.”
Watching the Gond communities live in harmony with nature completely transformed Chef Harshita’s perspective. “They taught me never to take more than I needed, never to waste, and to understand that every ingredient has a purpose. I also learnt how they preserve food without refrigeration and how seasonal ingredients naturally support health. These weren’t recipes; they were lessons in living. The village women became my greatest teachers. No culinary school teaches this knowledge. Later, with my background in marketing, I began presenting their food in a contemporary way so urban audiences could appreciate it. At the same time, I wanted the communities themselves to feel proud of their culinary heritage instead of seeing it as something inferior to city food,” she shares.
The chef further admits that she was initially apprehensive about presenting such rustic fare to Hyderabadis, known for their discerning palate. “The food I bring is intentionally rustic. It’s about nourishment rather than refinement. I wondered how diners who appreciate royal cuisine would respond to food born out of necessity in the forests. But I also felt this city would understand the value of authenticity, and that’s why Hyderabad was always on my list,” she highlights.
“The idea was to introduce people to the role of fire in indigenous cooking. I’ve also brought together dishes inspired by my travels across Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra, Chhattisgarh and Jharkhand. Every region has its own food traditions, even within the same tribal community. The menu offers a broad introduction to these diverse flavours rather than representing just one place,” adds Chef Harshita.
Further explaining the choice of ingredients, she notes, “These communities have preserved traditional seed varieties for generations. We use ingredients like Chinnor rice, Khapli wheat and native lentils because they represent India’s original agricultural diversity. They’re naturally suited to the regions where they’re grown and have been passed down through families for centuries. They tell a story of biodiversity and sustainable farming that’s worth preserving.”
The diversity of these traditions was beautifully reflected in the thoughtfully curated thali. We began with Mogra Sharbat, a delicately fragrant welcome drink, followed by Dal Farra — soft lentil dumplings served in a light, flavourful broth that felt like the forest’s answer to a comforting soup.
The mains offered an even deeper dive into indigenous flavours with Maas Ki Kadhi, Gaon Wala Murgh, Jamun Ki Sabzi, Chinnor rice, and Urad Dal Thadule. The combination of the earthy Gaon Wala Murgh, the surprisingly delightful Jamun Ki Sabzi, fragrant Chinnor rice and crisp Urad Dal Thadule was immensely satisfying. Equally memorable were the accompaniments Til Ki Chutney, Mahua Pickle and Chawal Papad which added layers of flavour and texture, making it difficult to stop reaching for another bite.
The meal concluded on a memorable note with Mahua Ice Cream, perhaps the festival’s most intriguing offering. Explaining its significance, Chef Harshita says, “Mahua was actually the beginning of my journey into indigenous food. When I first arrived in the forest, I saw people collecting its flowers and became curious. While most people associate mahua with liquor, I discovered that it has long been a nutritious food. Older generations made kheer and other traditional dishes with it, but those recipes were slowly disappearing. We wanted to reintroduce mahua in a format people would enjoy today, which is why we’ve created a Mahua Ice Cream. It’s familiar, approachable and opens conversations about an ingredient that’s native to India but largely misunderstood.”