What happens when street food walks into a fine-dining kitchen? That philosophy came alive in Hyderabad as Comorin hosted a special two-night pop-up at Kangan, The Westin Hyderabad Mindspace. Curated by Brand Chef Dhiraj Dargan and Head Chef Anuj Bhalla, the menu brought together regional flavours from across India, with wine pairings curated by Head of Wines Kevin Rodrigues.
“We are a regional Indian restaurant. We focus on regional dishes that are lost or forgotten. There are certain dishes that people hesitate to serve in a restaurant, such as Champaran Mutton. Our forte is bringing such dishes to the table,” says Chef Anuj Bhalla.
The chef’s approach also extends to familiar street food, which is given a more refined presentation without losing its character. “We also take familiar street food and give it a more elegant presentation. Take Dahi Batata Puri, for instance. It is beautiful and, of course, delicious, but we make it look more refined and suited to a fine-dining setting,” he adds.
The tasting menu unfolded across several courses, with each plate offering a different regional reference and a carefully considered wine pairing. The evening opened with an amuse-bouche of Dahi Batata Puri with Masala Kachalu and Wasabi. The familiar tang, sweetness and spice of Indian chaat received a subtle Japanese twist with wasabi, making for an unexpected start to the meal.
The appetisers moved to Haleem with Bakarkhani. It was one of the standout dishes of the evening, with the depth of the haleem and crispy bakarkhani balanced by a light-bodied, fruit-forward Chilean Pinot Noir that cut through the richness without overpowering the dish.
The regional trail continued with Goan Prawn Balchao served with Poi Bread, followed by Mutton Seekh Kebab with Kashmiri Roti. Each course brought a distinct flavour profile to the table. The transition to the main course came with Comorin’s Pao Bhaji, a signature interpretation of the street-food classic. The familiar flavours were elevated with sweet, rich caramelised onion bread, adding another layer of texture and flavour to the dish.
For the main course, diners could choose between Champaran Mutton served with Sattu Parantha and Ole Ki Chutney, or Banana Leaf Bhetki in Chilli Coconut Masala. The Champaran Mutton was tender and deeply flavoured, while the bhetki offered a delicate texture with a distinct tropical character from the chilli and coconut. The accompaniments Gucchi Pulao, Dal Comorin and Saffron Raita were hardly secondary players. The pulao featured prized gucchi added an earthy richness to the rice. Dal Comorin brought the comfort of slow-cooked lentils, while the saffron-infused raita offered a cooling, luxurious contrast to the more robust flavours. All three managed to hold their own alongside the mains or perhaps we can say were the clear winners.
Dessert began with a memory. Chef Anuj’s Cheeni Malai Toast arrived as the pre-dessert, transforming a simple combination of toast, sugar and cream into an elegant course. For the chef, the dish is particularly personal. “Our signature dessert, Cheeni Malai Toast carries a sense of nostalgia for almost every Indian. In different parts of the country, it is eaten in some form or another, so there is a personal memory attached to it for me as well,” he says.
The final course, Shakarkandi Ka Halwa with Basundi Foam and Chocolate Crumble, brought together the warmth of sweet potato halwa with the lightness of aerated basundi. The chocolate crumble added a contrasting texture, rounding off the meal on a suitably indulgent note.