KOCHI: P N Balan aka Balan chettan, the face behind the popular City Star eatery in Mattancherry and a familiar presence in Kochi’s food landscape, passed away on Wednesday.
Originally from Palakkad, Balan arrived in Kochi nearly five decades ago and began working at a small tea shop near the Church of Our Lady of Life on Bazaar Road.
“He started as a helper and delivered tea to nearby shops, offices, and warehouses in the bazaar town, gradually becoming a familiar and beloved figure,” recalled Mansoor Naina, a Mattancherry resident.
However, it was Balan’s association with what later became the City Star Hotel on Pullupadam Road that marked a turning point in the outsider’s life. The establishment, which evolved from a teashop into a modest eatery, came to be identified closely with him, eventually earning the popular moniker ‘Balan Chettan’s Kada’ among residents.
“The eatery sits in a Muslim-dominated area, but even then, as it is true for the rest of Mattancherry, here, no one pays any heed to such labels. The locals embraced Balan chettan wholeheartedly. Most homes had their breakfast from his shop,” said Adheena Ashfaque, who lives near the eatery.
Even those who didn’t visit the shop were aware of him and his Ceylon-style square porottas. “In fact, most mothers in the area replicated his style. Kids in my class used to bring square porottas for lunch,” Adheena added.
Known for its unchanged retro charm and no-frills menu, City Star drew loyal patrons for decades with staples such as porotta, idiyappam, puttu and vellayappam paired with meat chops, beef roast and beef fry.
The eatery was like a cult attraction, with many heritage and food walks making a stop here. “For many, City Star was a glimpse into the past. Especially given how the eatery was locked in a ‘time capsule’ even as Instagram-worthy cafes bloomed around,” said Steffan Joseph, a resident.
Part of that charm was also the man. In his passing, Balan chettan leaves behind a big void in Mattancherry.