PATANJALI SOMAYAJI
Food

Small place, big flavour

Poornima Somayaji’s restaurant Aragma brings in homegrown, globally inspired, and quietly ambitious flavours.

Shilpi Madan

It is a skilful interplay of ingredients—acid, texture, fat, even the people who grow them—that come together in a celebration on the plate, that’s how restaurateur Poornima Somayaji describes her brainchild, Aragama, a 24-seater restaurant in Pune. It's a proof that quiet corners of the map can still be world-class

Food: Make way for designer portions in a nine-course meal: Bold flavourful plates shaped by history, sparked by creativity, these are preparations that leave you satiated. Packing in more than their size lets on. Think grounded, forward-thinking preparations. Cheese and onion laced with kasundi mustard, eaten in panipuri format with aam panna in a glass with swirling kaffir lime; smoked snapper, fresh gooseberries; dehydrated ragi with an unbeatable crunch paired with avocado cream, crabmeat. The dark horse is the matki pasta with foraged mushrooms and pistachio shavings; watermelon rind salad with mint dust and plum. The dessert arrives in gloriously intriguing chapters, with Earl Grey ice cream with tea notes and black fig mud cake. Miso with caramelised banana for cake fanatics. You can pair up wines or grape, pineapple, moringa powered sips with the courses.

Décor: The restaurant brings in a pleasing earthy feel, with potted plants, and amber pools created by paper-crafted luminaries. A curated collection of books, photographs and tiny curios on the shelves lend a home-style feel to Poornima Somayaji’s labour of love.

Service: Intuitive service in an intimate space: Chef Amit Ghorpade powers the earthy knit of dishes on the evolving menu that mirrors small-city soul with big character.

Price: At INR 6000 approximately without alcohol, for two, it is definitely worth it.

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