Once a year, the quiet village of Kakkoor in Ernakulam district transforms into a roaring arena of mud, muscle, stamina and memory.
The century-old Kakkoor Kalavayal Karshikamela festival, held in the Malayalam month of ‘Kumbham’, is a post-harvest celebration rooted in agrarian pride. And at the heart of the festival lies the famed ‘maramadi’ or ‘kannupoottu’ — the traditional bull race that draws participants from across Kerala and, in earlier years, even from Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Maharashtra.
“This is considered the Olympics of farmers,” smiles Sinu Kakkoor, general secretary of the week-long Karshikamela, which includes other events such as mud-football, agrarian exhibitions, cultural art shows, dirt moto-racing, and seminars.
Kalavayal began as a cattle fair and gradually evolved into a wider agrarian celebration. The name itself comes from ‘kaala’ (bull) and ‘vayal’ (field), recalling a time when bulls were central to farming and transport.
The festival is linked to local folklore as well. The Bhagavathi deities of Edappara Temple in Thirumarady and Ambassery Temple in Kakkoor are believed to be sisters. It’s believed that their annual reunion is marked by Kalavayal.
The race, meanwhile, is a test of stamina for both animal and man: a pair of bulls charges through a muddy paddy field, guided by farmers running along. This year, about 240 bulls have been brought in for the fest.
“Nowadays, many rear these bulls like pets,” says Sinu. “Traditionally, they were the cheapest and most practical means to transport goods to markets. Today, the few who continue the tradition care for them with special feed, herbal mixtures and training. Not every bull owner participates in races. Those who do undergo training to avoid accidents.”
However, the race has not been without controversy. Animal welfare groups have protested against the practice, labelling it ‘cruel’. Competitive racing has since faced restrictions, and the event now strictly adheres to animal welfare guidelines, Sinu notes.
“Instead of multiple competitive rounds, bulls are allowed only one controlled run. Prizes are allocated based on performance, while ensuring its safety,” he adds.
Sinu admits that practices such as the use of prods and electric shock devices to force the animals to run faster once gave the race a ‘cruel’ image. “That was in the past. Such inhumane methods were introduced by handlers from outside the region,” he adds.
“These are now completely banned — not even a whip is allowed. The event is under the strict control of the panchayat. Alcohol consumption by handlers is also prohibited. Only trained participants are allowed to take part. Farmers run with their animals in the same muddy field. They share the brief strain together.
Kuttychan, a cattle handler, explains that unlike the harsh practices that prevailed once, caretakers now focus on nourishment and balance. “This ensures strength and stamina for bulls reared to run through the muddy fields,” he says.
“We give the bulls cotton seeds, paddy and its bran, wheat, broken peas, boiled mixtures of vegetables and herbs, and fresh grass.”
Sinu adds that the race is not being held for mere entertainment. “It is a shared memory and the pride of farmers,” he says.