KOCHI: Ethnicity is the in-word today in the fashion industry. Leading designers in the state say there is an adhoc movement everywhere leading fashionistas to take the ethnic root. City Express finds out the latest trends in the industry and why designs have become more traditional, a little-less colourful, yet an amalgamation of the contemporary.
Handwoven
Organic fashion store, Ethicus’ designs are weaved and handwoven on looms in Pollachi and handpainted using natural dyes by artisans in Andhra Pradesh. The designs are made with the idea of sustainability where the work of the artisans are recognised. “We use ecologic cotton in our saris and other garments. Kalamkari fashion is also the latest trend where the sarees and blouses give a trendy look,”said Vijayalakshmi Nachiar, founder of Ethicus. For Onam, kalamkari sarees is becoming a favourite. Ethicus has brought out their latest winter collections in brightly coloured hues of madder red, indigo blues, greens, yellows, blacks, greys and browns.
Shade-preferences
There is a general preference for shades such as parrot green and mustard yellow, both in bridal wear as well as in the sari collection. The ongoing trend is the use of traditional designs with gold works and kundan stone work. Even the zardosi work, a type of Iranian embroidery is another handwork which is being used by designers and is preferred by women. “ The youngsters prefer sarees with net border works. The other works are sheering net and tissue net work which gives a trendy look to the outfits,” says Seena Jerrin, Owner of Zatin designers.
Subtly traditional
Poornima Indrajith, who has just come out with her new Onam collection, says there is a responsibility that is driving the traditional movement in the industry. “You can see it in the make-in-India campaigns and in the sprouting demand for more heritage fabrics. As a designer, I feel it too and take it upon myself to preserve what is essentially our own,” said Poornima, who is the owner of Pranaah boutique in Kochi. According to her, people have begun to appreciate the value of traditional handloom. “Of course, that is still a niche market, but there is more awareness about this. Many people have also started considering it as part of their identity,” she said.
Poornima says, Pranaah has come out with an exclusively handwoven Kaithiri Kerala saree for this year’s Onam collection. “However, this time, the theme is quite contemporary, unlike the previous wall kannadi and aanachandam, which were huge hits. I have chosen to keep it more subtle which is why we chose to try out the polka dots which are completely handwoven with the ‘aana’ images on the off-white Kerala saree fabric. We have also chosen a colourul pattern including lotus peach and aqua blue so that people can wear it even after the Onam season,” she said.
Traditional-contemporary
Beshaa is one such clothing brand which has come out with the latest traditional-contemporary design collections in saris and kurtas for women. For men also, there is a collection of the traditional jubbas, long and short sleeve kurtas with different patterns. “ Now people prefer tunics and kurtas in pastel shades of beige .
Light orange, green, white , yellow are some of the other shades preferred by women,” said Bindu Sathyajith, MD of Poly Colours. For Onam, this cloth brand has also brought together a classic collection of some of the best designs in sarees, tunics, anarkalis and kurtas under the theme ‘Kalamezhuthu’. These designer outfits have a traditional touch and have been hand-painted and hand-woven. Even the tags of the cloths are made of cotton.
Typography designs
Specially hand-painted desginer saris and kurtas with mural designs, contemporary typography designs, Theyam work depicting the art forms of kerala is the latest collection of Sukriti, a cloth brand. “ The designs have been inspired from the elements from natuire like the birds, animals and plants with the touch of traditional designs which have been designed by Vinetha Mahesh, a designer,” said Jyoti Jawahar, Owner of Sukriti. Besides the designer outfits, for this Onam, jewellery with tradtional designs have also been crafted by sukriti. “ There is a trend where even youngsters prefer the traditional jewellery with bright-coloured saris in red and green,” says Jyoti.